Anti-spray

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bcombs
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Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 4:20 pm

Re: Anti-spray

Post by bcombs »

Resistance climbing is another term for getting short roped. You have a gumby belayer that learned how to use the gri-gri in a discussion on the way to the cliff. And yes, that is a skill I could improve on. :lol:
Andrew
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Re: Anti-spray

Post by Andrew »

dustonian wrote:Yeah, I've noticed that is the trendy jargon-du-jour lately.... people are like birds sometimes, they hear a new noise and want to make it themselves.

Why are you such a debby downer?
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dustonian
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Re: Anti-spray

Post by dustonian »

Andrew wrote: Why are you such a debby downer?
I was molested by your mother.
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ReachHigh
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Re: Anti-spray

Post by ReachHigh »

dustonian wrote:I was molested by your mother.
at first, the other times after that it was consensual.
"there's a line between self improvement and self involvement"
"Dogs are nature's pooper scoopers ."
dustonian
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Re: Anti-spray

Post by dustonian »

ReachHigh wrote:at first, the other times after that it was consensual.
The chemistry got better with time, like a fine cheese.
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ReachHigh
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Re: Anti-spray

Post by ReachHigh »

dustonian wrote:
ReachHigh wrote:at first, the other times after that it was consensual.
The chemistry got better with time, like a fine cheese.
you keep calling it a fine cheese but you really should have that looked at by a doctor.
"there's a line between self improvement and self involvement"
"Dogs are nature's pooper scoopers ."
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der uber
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Re: Anti-spray

Post by der uber »

That phrase is new to me, but 'resistance climbing' sounds like weighted climbing, like hit strips with a weight vest.
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rjackson
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Re: Anti-spray

Post by rjackson »

I had to do a little research too, this is the best I could find. It's from a Climbing article by Andy Raether about his training. Link below also...

...Although the sends came a year apart, I used similar training methods in the month preceding both: namely, resistance, or climbing at sustained difficulty over technical climbing, three letter grades below my redpoint ability. I also used my gym’s 60-degree wall to maintain power.

http://www.climbing.com/print/techtips/ttsport258/
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
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512OW
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Re: Anti-spray

Post by 512OW »

der uber wrote:That phrase is new to me, but 'resistance climbing' sounds like weighted climbing, like hit strips with a weight vest.
"Resistance" is basically the cool way of saying "Power Endurance". Sustained routes with no real "rest" from the climbing is a "resistance" route.
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JR
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Re: Anti-spray

Post by JR »

shear wrote: Routes of a similar grade and an even harder grade that went in a handful of attempts...yet this one really showed my Achilles heel in rock climbing, resistance climbing. No where for me to shake out on GB, which is something I thrive on...guess I know what I have to work on. Although, there are a few days next week that look very promising for a final hail mary attempt on it.
I find it a little weird that experienced climbers are having a hard time understanding what "resistance climbing" is. But then again I never really used the term before I had tried Golden Boy.

Maybe to understand resistance climbing you need to cross a few hurdles in climbing. You have had to climbed routes that you needed to recover on to complete. Even if it was sitting for 10 minutes on Fuzzy Undercling. You also have to climb a grade that is at least somewhat close to your limit. Ok. Back to Fuzzy. If you where on Fuzzy and you got wicked pumped on the initial boulder problem and you thrutched your way up to the rest. And you knew that if you pushed on you would peel going for the chains. You could understand "resistance climbing".

How you ask?

Just imagine Fuzzy without the sitdown rest. The route would be more "resistant". It wouldn't necessarily be harder, especially for someone that is good at resistant routes(someone that never rests on routes) or someone that is higher than the 5.11 level.

Why would Fuzzy sans sitdown be the same grade? Because the climbing has big enough holds on it that a 5.11 climber could recover on them. To tell the truth it might bump up the grade, but either way the route would be more resistant.

Secondly, I think Power-Endurance and Resistance climbing are interchangeable. Basically, it is climbing that is in the sweet spot in terms of difficulty that is between cruxy and easy enough to recover on. Usually "resistance" routes are characterized by having many of the same sized holds and/or body positions that don't lead to recovery.
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