Specificity.JR wrote:Thanks SCIN. But it is true.SCIN wrote:Dude I find that really hard to believe. You've sent some shit this year waaaay harder than that line.JR wrote:Gave up on BOHICA. Completely over my head. I was never close so it didn't hurt too bad to let it go.
Anti-spray
Moderator: terrizzi
Re: Anti-spray
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
Re: Anti-spray
The "one that got away" this year was a big learning experience for me, teaching me alot about timing, preparation, and dealing with setbacks.
Work on Swingline progressed quickly... too quickly... and I was falling at the end of the crux sequence when it was still 85 degrees. To keep fit, I ran laps at the Darkside, waiting for the temps to lower. First, I injured a tendon, which bounced back quickly. Back to laps. By the time the temps dropped, I was plenty fit, but had no skin left on the sides of my fingers. The pockets at the Darkside had taken their toll, and I was never able to get comfortable enough at the "rest" on Swingline to get anything back. By the time that healed, I had lost just enough fitness that I was back to falling at the end of the crux sequence. This spring, it will be timed right.
Work on Swingline progressed quickly... too quickly... and I was falling at the end of the crux sequence when it was still 85 degrees. To keep fit, I ran laps at the Darkside, waiting for the temps to lower. First, I injured a tendon, which bounced back quickly. Back to laps. By the time the temps dropped, I was plenty fit, but had no skin left on the sides of my fingers. The pockets at the Darkside had taken their toll, and I was never able to get comfortable enough at the "rest" on Swingline to get anything back. By the time that healed, I had lost just enough fitness that I was back to falling at the end of the crux sequence. This spring, it will be timed right.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
-Tyler Durden
www.odubmusic.com
- climb2core
- Posts: 2224
- Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:04 pm
Re: Anti-spray
You know, I think this "Anti-spray" thread is way more about spraying than not... Full of the hardest lines we "almost" sent. I was able to 2 hang Mosaic and Cell Block, so can I anti-spray about that too?
Re: Anti-spray
+1....you mean that wasn't the whole intention?climb2core wrote:You know, I think this "Anti-spray" thread is way more about spraying than not... Full of the hardest lines we "almost" sent. I was able to 2 hang Mosaic and Cell Block, so can I anti-spray about that too?
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
-
- Posts: 265
- Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2008 1:23 pm
Re: Anti-spray
Banshee and Amarillo Sunset. The main problem with both was that I ran out of time. Tried Amarillo Sunset at the end of a warm day. Only had the time and energy to give it one go. Managed to get in two go's on Banshee and felt like I had enough juice, but couldn't remember the crux sequence the second time. (I thought the crux was getting into the first hueco, not the second.) Then on the way home I realized I could have gotten a nice left kneebar rest before the section going into the first hueco. Dammit. I was only at the red for a few days and only visited each region one day. Hoping to get back on at least one of them between x-mas and nye, weather permitting. Both awesome lines too.
"But the motto was, never think you're that cool - you're still just climbing rocks...in the woods...with bugs...and everyone thinks you're crazy."
- Dave Graham
- Dave Graham
Re: Anti-spray
JR: Gave up on BOHICA. Completely over my head. I was never close so it didn't hurt too bad to let it go.
Ray: Dude I find that really hard to believe. You've sent some shit this year waaaay harder than that line.
JR: Thanks SCIN. But it is true.
Kris: Specificity.
Learned that lesson hard this year -lee
Ray: Dude I find that really hard to believe. You've sent some shit this year waaaay harder than that line.
JR: Thanks SCIN. But it is true.
Kris: Specificity.
Learned that lesson hard this year -lee
Can't we all just get along?
Re: Anti-spray
Yup. Same here.One-Fall wrote:JR: Gave up on BOHICA. Completely over my head. I was never close so it didn't hurt too bad to let it go.
Ray: Dude I find that really hard to believe. You've sent some shit this year waaaay harder than that line.
JR: Thanks SCIN. But it is true.
Kris: Specificity.
Learned that lesson hard this year -lee
Routes of a similar grade and an even harder grade that went in a handful of attempts...yet this one really showed my Achilles heel in rock climbing, resistance climbing. No where for me to shake out on GB, which is something I thrive on...guess I know what I have to work on. Although, there are a few days next week that look very promising for a final hail mary attempt on it.
- DriskellHR
- Posts: 1260
- Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 11:34 pm
Re: Anti-spray
I tried to send your girlfriend but could not make it over the 2nd fatroll...........
"....... Be sure to linger......." Mike Tucker
Re: Anti-spray
I am probably just old, but what is resistance climbing?
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
Re: Anti-spray
Yeah, I've noticed that is the trendy jargon-du-jour lately.... people are like birds sometimes, they hear a new noise and want to make it themselves.