Anti-spray

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512OW
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Re: Anti-spray

Post by 512OW »

JR wrote:
SCIN wrote:
JR wrote:Gave up on BOHICA. Completely over my head. I was never close so it didn't hurt too bad to let it go.
Dude I find that really hard to believe. You've sent some shit this year waaaay harder than that line.
Thanks SCIN. But it is true.
Specificity.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com
512OW
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Re: Anti-spray

Post by 512OW »

The "one that got away" this year was a big learning experience for me, teaching me alot about timing, preparation, and dealing with setbacks.

Work on Swingline progressed quickly... too quickly... and I was falling at the end of the crux sequence when it was still 85 degrees. To keep fit, I ran laps at the Darkside, waiting for the temps to lower. First, I injured a tendon, which bounced back quickly. Back to laps. By the time the temps dropped, I was plenty fit, but had no skin left on the sides of my fingers. The pockets at the Darkside had taken their toll, and I was never able to get comfortable enough at the "rest" on Swingline to get anything back. By the time that healed, I had lost just enough fitness that I was back to falling at the end of the crux sequence. This spring, it will be timed right.
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com
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climb2core
Posts: 2224
Joined: Wed Jun 02, 2010 4:04 pm

Re: Anti-spray

Post by climb2core »

You know, I think this "Anti-spray" thread is way more about spraying than not... Full of the hardest lines we "almost" sent. I was able to 2 hang Mosaic and Cell Block, so can I anti-spray about that too? ;)
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pigsteak
Posts: 9684
Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Re: Anti-spray

Post by pigsteak »

climb2core wrote:You know, I think this "Anti-spray" thread is way more about spraying than not... Full of the hardest lines we "almost" sent. I was able to 2 hang Mosaic and Cell Block, so can I anti-spray about that too? ;)
+1....you mean that wasn't the whole intention?
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
Barnacle Ben
Posts: 265
Joined: Fri Dec 05, 2008 1:23 pm

Re: Anti-spray

Post by Barnacle Ben »

Banshee and Amarillo Sunset. The main problem with both was that I ran out of time. Tried Amarillo Sunset at the end of a warm day. Only had the time and energy to give it one go. Managed to get in two go's on Banshee and felt like I had enough juice, but couldn't remember the crux sequence the second time. (I thought the crux was getting into the first hueco, not the second.) Then on the way home I realized I could have gotten a nice left kneebar rest before the section going into the first hueco. Dammit. I was only at the red for a few days and only visited each region one day. Hoping to get back on at least one of them between x-mas and nye, weather permitting. Both awesome lines too.
"But the motto was, never think you're that cool - you're still just climbing rocks...in the woods...with bugs...and everyone thinks you're crazy."

- Dave Graham
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One-Fall
Posts: 843
Joined: Tue May 13, 2003 12:27 am

Re: Anti-spray

Post by One-Fall »

JR: Gave up on BOHICA. Completely over my head. I was never close so it didn't hurt too bad to let it go.

Ray: Dude I find that really hard to believe. You've sent some shit this year waaaay harder than that line.

JR: Thanks SCIN. But it is true.

Kris: Specificity.


Learned that lesson hard this year -lee
Can't we all just get along?
shear
Posts: 86
Joined: Sat Mar 01, 2008 10:51 am

Re: Anti-spray

Post by shear »

One-Fall wrote:JR: Gave up on BOHICA. Completely over my head. I was never close so it didn't hurt too bad to let it go.

Ray: Dude I find that really hard to believe. You've sent some shit this year waaaay harder than that line.

JR: Thanks SCIN. But it is true.

Kris: Specificity.


Learned that lesson hard this year -lee
Yup. Same here.

Routes of a similar grade and an even harder grade that went in a handful of attempts...yet this one really showed my Achilles heel in rock climbing, resistance climbing. No where for me to shake out on GB, which is something I thrive on...guess I know what I have to work on. Although, there are a few days next week that look very promising for a final hail mary attempt on it.
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DriskellHR
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Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 11:34 pm

Re: Anti-spray

Post by DriskellHR »

I tried to send your girlfriend but could not make it over the 2nd fatroll...........
"....... Be sure to linger......." Mike Tucker
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pigsteak
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Re: Anti-spray

Post by pigsteak »

I am probably just old, but what is resistance climbing?
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
dustonian
Posts: 3089
Joined: Mon Jul 27, 2009 2:46 pm

Re: Anti-spray

Post by dustonian »

Yeah, I've noticed that is the trendy jargon-du-jour lately.... people are like birds sometimes, they hear a new noise and want to make it themselves.
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