I was climbing Twinkie and was procrastinating right before the roof section and happened to look to my right and noticed an extremely worn biner on Phantasia. It immediately occurred to me that the way the route is laid out, where the rope makes an L shape as it goes from the slab to a roof, is a perfect formula for biner wear right where that transition is. The first bolt on the roof of both routes is simple to clip, and I wondered what peoples thoughts were on possibly making people clip their own quickdraw there since it gets worn so much more than the other biners (like the idea about making people clip the first bolt with their gear). I heard the only reason why Twinkie has perma gear on it was to make it so you didn't have to clean because there was an incident with the tree, and so maybe making people clip their own gear there isn't such a good idea since they would have to clean it.
Somebody left a blue Omega quickdraw on the first bolt of Twinkie where there normally isn't one, and I went ahead and swapped out that worn one on Phantasia with the Omega.
I think we could at least replace the Omega with a steel biner, heck maybe all of Phantasia should have steel biners installed. I have noticed it gets a lot of traffic.
Twinkie and Phantasia biner wear
Twinkie and Phantasia biner wear
Last edited by Redpoint on Mon Nov 01, 2010 10:00 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut
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captain static
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Re: Twinkie and Phantasia biner wear
I was looking at the pictures of Twinkie & Phantasia that Ray posted in the online guide in 2005. I didn't see any perma-draws in those pictures. It might just be that in my old age my eyesight is failing?
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
Re: Twinkie and Phantasia biner wear
Also, isn't this FS land? No fixed gear is supposed to be the rule.
Re: Twinkie and Phantasia biner wear
Is this you way of telling us that you finally got on Twinkie? It IS isn't? Redpoint...? You sneaky lil spray bitch 
Re: Twinkie and Phantasia biner wear
Twinkie got the chain treatment earlier this year... see ya out there soon Redpoint!
And on the third day, God created the Red River Gorge(by conjecture), and he saw that it was good.
Re: Twinkie and Phantasia biner wear
We were out there in October 2009 and there were fixed draws on Twinkie that already had quite a bit of wear and were getting sharp. We replaced 1 or 2 biners, and if I recall, the group ahead of us replaced one, too . . . definitely a candidate for steel biners, if it's allowed.
Re: Twinkie and Phantasia biner wear
I'm pretty sure the biners on Twinkie are steel, they are all the same make and model. I checked all of them and they all looked good. Normally I could tell if it was steel from the weight, but since there are chains attached to them I didn't even bother trying to feel how heavy they were. Well to whoever put the chains on this thing, thanks a ton. I made sure to donate on Saturday night.
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut
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captain static
- Posts: 2438
- Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 6:05 pm
Re: Twinkie and Phantasia biner wear
And who got permission from the USFS to fix chains on Twinkie?Rollo wrote:Twinkie got the chain treatment earlier this year... see ya out there soon Redpoint!
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
Re: Twinkie and Phantasia biner wear
Soooo c'mon Redpoint tell us the REAL reason for this thread Go ahead and spray lil feller Wheres the 5000 pics you made somebody take of you...? c'mon now.
Go ahead and spray lil feller Wheres the 5000 pics you made somebody take of you...? c'mon now.Re: Twinkie and Phantasia biner wear
shh!captain static wrote:And who got permission from the USFS to fix chains on Twinkie?Rollo wrote:Twinkie got the chain treatment earlier this year... see ya out there soon Redpoint!
are you saying that you'd rather have those time-bombs still up there? somebody would have been killed by now