How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

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JR
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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by JR »

Aviary has some glue. Cutthroat has a tad.

Gluing is more of a NRG thing.

I was climbing at the New once. Lowered off a climb that had no less than a dozen glued crimps where you are basically just crimping epoxy. I couldn't fathom the rational for such a thing. Another climber near-by assured me that without the glue there would be no route (it is here that I should note that this route was a 12c variation on an existing 12a route that didn't have glue). I replied "You are right. There might not be a 5.12 here if there was no glue..."
Andrew
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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by Andrew »

I think I have climbed that route JR.


Yea, I can think of ten or so routes at the red with glue, most have already been mentioned.

Ethics Police is missing the hold but some of the glue is still there.

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drifter
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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by drifter »

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clif
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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by clif »

JR wrote:Aviary has some glue. Cutthroat has a tad.

Gluing is more of a NRG thing.

I was climbing at the New once. Lowered off a climb that had no less than a dozen glued crimps where you are basically just crimping epoxy. I couldn't fathom the rational for such a thing. Another climber near-by assured me that without the glue there would be no route (it is here that I should note that this route was a 12c variation on an existing 12a route that didn't have glue). I replied "You are right. There might not be a 5.12 here if there was no glue..."
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Rollo
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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by Rollo »

Banshee and Ethics Police?... i kinda thought the line to cross for glueing holds back on would start in the 12 range. I was quite suprised when i saw the huge vein of epoxy on Seeker. I guess i thought that wasn't accepted practice at the red... seems like it's few and far between.

i say let em break.
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aburgoon
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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by aburgoon »

In the right hands, you'll never know if a route is glued or not.
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bcombs
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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by bcombs »

I did a figure four on that glued hold to bypass the crux. :o
JR
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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by JR »

bcombs wrote:I did a figure four on that glued hold to bypass the crux. :o

Crazy, because I did a figure four on the crux holds to bypass the glued hold!
aburgoon
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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by aburgoon »

bcombs wrote:I did a figure four on that glued hold to bypass the crux. :o
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bcombs
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Re: How much GLUE can you pull at The Red?

Post by bcombs »

:wink:

I heard that Pig glued the Iniquity ramp on. It should hold.
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