Looking for a good hand crack

[gripster]

Alright everyone, I am looking for your opinions! I am making a trip to the red soon and would like to hone my crack skills a little bit. I am looking for decently well protected, fairly straight forward handcracks 5.10 and under. One thing I should mention is that I only have a standard NC trad rack, or in other words I do not have 5-10 pieces of the same size cams, like would be necessary at say Indian Creek. Thanks in advance for your suggestions! Feel free to throw out any non-handcracks that are worthy if you would like!

[dustonian]

Not that many true jamcracks in the Red really (better off in Chatt), but that said...

Adventures of the Leper Nurse
Autumn
Crack Attack of course
Tony's Happy Christmas Crack
sections of Jim's Dihedral
Into the Purple Valley
Africa (sort of)
Andromeda Strain
Handjob
Marmalade (fists/OW)
Beene Material (sort of; more like 10+)
Brontosaurus (sort of)
What's Left of the Beeneling (sort of; more like 10+)
Frenchburg Overhangs (sort of)
Arachnid (sort of)
Whiteout Direct is not hands but really nice
No Bones about It (sort of)
Dicey at Best (sort of; fists)
The Quest (sort of; pitch 2)

[gripster]

A little off topic I know, but I just checked out "Adventures of the Leper Nurse", and saw a term I keep seeing "thuggish". Since I am not cool (seriously, not at all) could somebody please try to explain to me what "thuggish" climbing is? And while I am on the topic of climbing terminology, could someone define "chuffer" for me as well. Man I wish I was cool!

[jrathfon]

Chuffer:

http://www.urbandictionary.com/define.php?term=Chuffer

Thuggish:

you got to get nasty with that crack, wrassle, wriggle, punch, kick, and throw yourself to the top. muscle shoals.

[dustonian]

Leper Nurse shouldn't be thuggish with good technique. A pure OW like Muscle Shoals on the other hand...

[jrathfon]

Adventures of the Leper Nurse: a lot of fun, should have more stars, varies and climbable with a double rack, wish it was longer
Autumn: uber-classic, can be climbed without jams, but climbs much nicer with, again doubles are all you need specifically, 1-3
Crack Attack of course: yes! trips of 1 and 2 are nice, and a 3 fits at the top, even a 4 as the last piece can be jammed in
Tony's Happy Christmas Crack: no idea
sections of Jim's Dihedral: need to get on!
Into the Purple Valley: ditto, but sunny, wait for non 80 degree temps
Africa (sort of): thin hands, awesome, must jam, doubles, too short
Andromeda Strain: mommy likes, all jams, EATS yellows and blues, take trip 2's and 3's and you'll have 6 pieces for 100ft, and one .75
Handjob: no idea
Marmalade (fists/OW): looks awesome
Beene Material (sort of; more like 10+): ditto
Brontosaurus (sort of): really good, short, laybacky thin hands, double rack'll do ya
What's Left of the Beeneling (sort of; more like 10+): man i have a lot of work to do
Frenchburg Overhangs (sort of): ditto
Arachnid (sort of): start has thin hands (#1's), into roof traverse, than OW, doubles and a huge piece will do ya
Whiteout Direct is not hands but really nice: stellar
No Bones about It (sort of): go to do
Dicey at Best (sort of; fists): got to do
The Quest (sort of; pitch 2): more work

day dreaming: dihedral, doesn't need to be jammed, but has great thin hands most of the way, double rack
dip wall has tons of short fist/hand cracks in the 8-9+ range: one fist, two fist, red fist, blue fist: fists
environmental impact: 7, start is all jams, double rack is thin, but it's a 7
big money: start is thin hands, double rack
snake: double rack
attack of the sand shark: thin hands, double rack
strick 9: thin hands, short, double rack

[jrathfon]

Leper Nurse shouldn't be thuggish with good technique. A pure OW like Muscle Shoals on the other hand...

leper nurse does get a little dirty and OWey near the top, surprisingly good line though.

[jrathfon]

Alright everyone, I am looking for your opinions! I am making a trip to the red soon and would like to hone my crack skills a little bit. I am looking for decently well protected, fairly straight forward handcracks 5.10 and under. One thing I should mention is that I only have a standard NC trad rack, or in other words I do not have 5-10 pieces of the same size cams, like would be necessary at say Indian Creek. Thanks in advance for your suggestions! Feel free to throw out any non-handcracks that are worthy if you would like!

with a standard NC rack, which i'm guessing means doubles to 2 and a 3? a lot of stuff goes, but if you picked up a third 1,2 and maybe a 3, most any "pure" hand crack in the red goes nicely with a little bit of back cleaning and/or walking.

OHHHH!!!!: roadside attraction: beautiful hands in the starting dihedral. duh.

[Brentucky]

Inhibitor is a really good 5.9+.

[Andrew]

Well if your NC rack was anything like mine, its a lot of smaller stuff. In my experience the red requires a lot more medium and larger gear than NC.