Gri Gri Test

[caribe]

This is NOT in anyway a suggestion to belay with no hand on the brake end
of the rope.

You can't use the click-up (previous forum), now it looks like your grigri procedure is also defective. You need to talk to someone who knows what they are doing. Belaying is serious stuff.

[caribe]

Seems simple but it does take a little bit of figuring out to get it to work right. Totally worth the effort though.

Michelle I love the attitude that allows one to approximate perfection with time. You have been climbing for quite a while now and you are still open to learning. I am with that vibe

[robert birchell]

This is NOT in anyway a suggestion to belay with no hand on the brake end
of the rope.

You can't use the click-up (previous forum), now it looks like your grigri procedure is also defective. You need to talk to someone who knows what they are doing. Belaying is serious stuff.

Well, you got one thing right....Belaying is serious stuff.

[caribe]

It was very difficult to measure but was not much.

Do it again. Tie a small string tightly to the rope at the very top of the grigri. To measure the amount of slippage, measure the difference between the new position of the string and the top of the grigri after the fall. Metric units are preferred.
- Pay out a measured amount of slack. Repeat the fall 10 times each as a function of the measured amount of paid out slack. Plot a chart of slippage vs. climbing-relevant, paid out slack with error bars at each point. Be careful so your climber doesn't deck.
- Annotate the chart with wind speed and wind direction, barometric pressure, dew point, number of draws that the rope passed through, type, thickness and age of rope and weights of climber and belayer. You should probably report the static coefficient of friction of the rope also.

[bcombs]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lftcl09KgjE

[Saxman]

It was very difficult to measure but was not much.

Do it again. Tie a small string tightly to the rope at the very top of the grigri. To measure the amount of slippage, measure the difference between the new position of the string and the top of the grigri after the fall. Metric units are preferred.
- Pay out a measured amount of slack. Repeat the fall 10 times each as a function of the measured amount of paid out slack. Plot a chart of slippage vs. climbing-relevant, paid out slack with error bars at each point. Be careful so your climber doesn't deck.
- Annotate the chart with wind speed and wind direction, barometric pressure, dew point, number of draws that the rope passed through, type, thickness and age of rope and weights of climber and belayer. You should probably report the static coefficient of friction of the rope also.

You forgot to add to let the rope rest at least 30 mins between each attempt or to use 10 ropes from the same batch.