Sharing my power/strength training plan

Quit whining. Drink bourbon. Climb more.
Shamis
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Joined: Tue Jan 02, 2007 12:11 pm

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Post by Shamis »

Thanks for posting this. I'm sure I'm not the only one that feels really lazy right now, but it's something to work towards.
512OW
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Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Post by 512OW »

One-Fall wrote:
Mack5 wrote:umm training...whats that??? i just climbed all summer outside....it was fun, and i sent my hardest redpoint during the summer.....hopefully that eqviates to climbing strong in the fall...even tho im not climbing as much outside...

And what are those of us who have a mortgage, insurance and bill supposed to do? We can't all live at the gorge :D
We get stronger and crush all fall while the summer crowd spins their wheels on the same grades.... thats what!!
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com
512OW
Posts: 3040
Joined: Mon Oct 21, 2002 9:43 pm

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Post by 512OW »

If anyone is interested in training talk, and already has an RSS feed, I just started a blog for my new venture, The Power Company.

Check us out... www.powercompanyclimbing.blogspot.com

There's just an initial post up now, but I'll be posting workouts, training clinic dates, progress reports, and just general thoughts on the subject starting in a day or two...
"Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you a chicken."
-Tyler Durden

www.odubmusic.com
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One-Fall
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Joined: Tue May 13, 2003 12:27 am

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Post by One-Fall »

Kris, this thing looks awesome! PERFECT NAME, awesome logo. Cant wait to see where this goes.
Can't we all just get along?
the lurkist
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Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2002 2:07 pm

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Post by the lurkist »

I am inspired by all of you who are taking a rigorous approach to training. From Mike Anderson's post on Rock Climbing.com , he commented that most people don't train, they climb/ boulder and in general take a chaotic approach to training as opposed to a systematic approach. You all, however, are taking a systematic approach. That is inspiring. The sport is progressing because of it. With this approach, available to every person, the median level of climbing will be mid 5.12 (or higher).
"It really is all good ! My thinking only occasionally calls it differently..."
Normie
chriss
Posts: 354
Joined: Tue Sep 16, 2003 11:02 am

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Post by chriss »

Thanks for posting your workouts Ray. For your fingerboard routines when you say "8 seconds X 3 sets with 1 minute rest between sets" is this 3 times of -- hang 8 seconds followed by a minute rest, or is a set more than one hang?
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SCIN
Posts: 4932
Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Post by SCIN »

Hey Chris, one set is one hang.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
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pigsteak
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Post by pigsteak »

OK, Ray call me dumnb, but Fingerboard Level 1 workout...
1-Hold 1
2-Hold 2
3-Rest 2 minutes and repeat steps 1 and 2...

I can never get past step 3....I started this workout and after 4 and a half hourse was still on step 3...any help?

Also, in Level 2, am i missing step 15? I am assuming it is Hold 5 L3 fingers 8 seconds 4 sets...correct?
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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SCIN
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Joined: Fri Sep 20, 2002 1:19 pm

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Post by SCIN »

Skip step 3 the 2nd time around. Yea, step 15 is missing in week 2. Also, here's level 7 for anyone interested. I plan on keeping this as my "maintenance" level throughout the climbing season.

Warmup:
1. Hold 1 - 4 fingers, 10 seconds X 4 sets with 20 second rests between sets
2. Hold 2 - 4 fingers, 10 seconds X 4 sets with 20 second rests between sets
3. Rest 2 minutes then repeat steps 1 and 2
4. Rest 4 minutes

Strength
1. Hold 2 - F3 fingers, 8 seconds X 3 sets with 1 minute rest between sets (30 pounds)
2. Rest 2 minutes
3. Hold 2 - L3 fingers, 8 seconds X 3 sets with 1 minute rest between sets (30 pounds)
4. Rest 3 minutes
5. Hold 5 - F3 fingers, 8 seconds X 4 sets with 1 minute rest between sets (30 pounds)
6. Rest 3 minutes
7. Hold 5 - L3 fingers, 8 seconds X 3 sets with 1 minute rest between sets (30 pounds)
8. Rest 5 minutes
9. Hold 3 - F3 fingers, 8 seconds X 3 sets with 1 minute rest between sets
10. Rest 5 minutes
11. Hold 3 - L3 fingers, 8 seconds X 3 sets with 1 minute rest between sets
12. Rest 5 minutes
13. Hold 4 - F3 fingers, 8 seconds x 3 sets with 2 minute rest between sets
14. Rest 5 minutes
15. Hold 4 - L3 fingers, 8 seconds x 3 sets with 2 minute rest between sets.
16. Rest 5 minutes.
17. Alternate between 2 fingers (middle 2) on hold 6 and Middle 2 fingers on hold 3 X 4 sets with 1 minute rest between sets
18. Rest 5 minutes
19. Lockoffs
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!

-Horatio
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pigsteak
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Joined: Tue Jun 17, 2003 6:49 pm

Re: Sharing my power/strength training plan

Post by pigsteak »

maintenance? are you trying to kill me?
I could only get thru the warm up hangs on the moon board...and then I was shot....it truly sucks to be this weak.
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
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