Kill Bill (training for the pain box)

[Brentucky]

Piggie, you will upon reading this have been corrected again. Nowadays it's beer, gear, and grass at the crag. Git with the hip brodog.

[robert birchell]

camhead wrote....

"The ideas on recovery training and working under dimishing returns were really interesting in the blog. After reading it, I actually tried a variation of it at my gym last night. Set a 27-move numbered jug problem that does a lap around our 70 degree wall, with plenty of rest spots to hang and shake. I do a lap around this problem, resting quite a bit, before starting right again into various harder (v3-v5) 10 move boulder problems."

Camhead could you describe your 70 degree wall (size) and/or post a picture. Size of holds?
Would you share your training routines on this wall.
Thanks
Bob

[camhead]

camhead wrote....

"The ideas on recovery training and working under dimishing returns were really interesting in the blog. After reading it, I actually tried a variation of it at my gym last night. Set a 27-move numbered jug problem that does a lap around our 70 degree wall, with plenty of rest spots to hang and shake. I do a lap around this problem, resting quite a bit, before starting right again into various harder (v3-v5) 10 move boulder problems."

Camhead could you describe your 70 degree wall (size) and/or post a picture. Size of holds?
Would you share your training routines on this wall.
Thanks
Bob

First off, I guess I should clarify that it is not "my" gym; it's a private bouldering gym that I set at. anyway, here's the 70-degree wall. I don't have a picture of the routes right now, but here's one of the general size and angle of the wall:



There are more photos here: http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=8 ... 1613923787

I haven't worked the endurance training routines too much on here yet (for most of the summer I've just been doing campus/hangboard stuff). It was only after recently reading 512OW's blog that I decided to set some stuff that could train recovery. shaking, and diminishing returns.

There are already a half a dozen problems on the 70 degree wall ranging from v3-v9. They are each around ten moves long, so there is a slight endurance component to them, even though they are mostly centered around individual power moves. To augment these existing problems, I just added, like I said above, a 27-move numbered sequence of jugs that does a lap up, down, and around the 70 degree wall. For endurance, it probably is around 11b/c or so; it is not completely mindless jughauling (there are some big moves and smallish holds), but it's got a lot of spots to rest as well. Near the end of the sequence (around move 23 out of 27, there is a really good rest jug, which I intended to be the recovery/shaking out location. After resting here, you can continue out along the base of the wall without dropping off, and run up your choice of the boulder problems, and are forced to basically approach precise, beta-intensive, low probability moves while still quite pumped– just like on a sport route.

It's harder than I expected it to be, and I'm really having to work on the rest periods, trying to get anything back with the recovery. Resting has always been my weakness while sport climbing, and I really haven't succeeded on many big endurance routes at the Red, so it will be interesting to see how this routine has helped once we get into sending season during the next couple months.

Oh, and, shameless plug here, but this gym is looking to add a few more members. If you are in the Columbus, OH area, and are interested, get in touch via the facebook page:

http://www.facebook.com/kinetic.columbus

[robert birchell]

Thanks for the reply.
That is one nice looking gym.
Bob