Kill Bill (training for the pain box)

[pigsteak]

kris, you mean do not train enough for shaking out?

[512OW]

kris, you mean do not train enough for shaking out?

I did mean that. I confused myself in the way that I was writing it, and tried to rewrite it. Apparently that confused me more and I just moved on. I think I fixed it now...

[Lateralus]

Great stuff, I agree with so much of it. I'm far from a 5.14 climber ( as pigsteak said I guess I never wanted it bad enough) but a lot of what Bill says resonates to what I"ve learned usually the hard way over many years of climbing and training. This is really a gold mine for someone who wants to train effectively w/ attention to a lot of overlooked details but isn't sure where to start. I'm a bit more in the "less specific" camp I guess if, I think it is a more wholistic method and reduces injury chances compared to the very specific way, us old geezers have to worry about that stuff. Thanks a lot for posting this it's briliant

[allah]

Bill is to old to know what he is talking about! I wouldn't listen to his training system, I don't think the old man knows what he's talking about.

[512OW]

"The main thing is you get used to climbing with a really bad pump in a totally controlled environment (even more so that leading in the gym), and you also learn how to recover."

However, you still don't get used to LEADING with a really bad pump. Most people I've encountered, the moment they THINK they're too pumped, say "take". Bill gained his lead head from years of doing gear climbs at Smith, and that's something that can't be taken for granted, and is better trained while leading on routes you have dialed, than on a treadwall.

[heavyc]

thanks for sharing that Hugh & Bill, I think it is interesting that his Wednesday is close to replicating a long day at the Red, 60 foot long or more routes with a rest in between (when you would normally be belaying), I too am old and have found that long workout days with long rests (48-96 hours) before trying to perform at the Red work best (both with my body recovering and my work schedule) I have tried doing shorter workouts more days of the week but I just don't recover well in 24 hours and lose a lot of motivation when the workout goes really poorly from lack of recovery
I think the best piece of training advice is that everyone needs to figure out what works best for their body, their mindset & their work schedule, this may require years of methodical training along with recording your results and thinking about how the different training affected you
by the way old dudes that crush especially Bill Ramsey are my climbing heroes, thanks for the inspiration!!

[Silk]

Great post. I'd like to see the other essay too.

[caribe]

This piece is important when you consider the long periodic features in people's programs. Muscles "remember." http://www.npr.org/templates/story/stor ... c=fb&cc=fp

[clif]

those workouts don't seem to leave much room for drinking

[the lurkist]

yeah caribe, muscles remember but the younger you start the better they remember. So for you... I guess you could coin the term muscular alzheimers.