Sharing my power/strength training plan

[Shamis]

Thanks for posting this. I'm sure I'm not the only one that feels really lazy right now, but it's something to work towards.

[512OW]

umm training...whats that??? i just climbed all summer outside....it was fun, and i sent my hardest redpoint during the summer.....hopefully that eqviates to climbing strong in the fall...even tho im not climbing as much outside...

And what are those of us who have a mortgage, insurance and bill supposed to do? We can't all live at the gorge

We get stronger and crush all fall while the summer crowd spins their wheels on the same grades.... thats what!!

[512OW]

If anyone is interested in training talk, and already has an RSS feed, I just started a blog for my new venture, The Power Company.

Check us out... www.powercompanyclimbing.blogspot.com

There's just an initial post up now, but I'll be posting workouts, training clinic dates, progress reports, and just general thoughts on the subject starting in a day or two...

[One-Fall]

Kris, this thing looks awesome! PERFECT NAME, awesome logo. Cant wait to see where this goes.

[the lurkist]

I am inspired by all of you who are taking a rigorous approach to training. From Mike Anderson's post on Rock Climbing.com , he commented that most people don't train, they climb/ boulder and in general take a chaotic approach to training as opposed to a systematic approach. You all, however, are taking a systematic approach. That is inspiring. The sport is progressing because of it. With this approach, available to every person, the median level of climbing will be mid 5.12 (or higher).

[chriss]

Thanks for posting your workouts Ray. For your fingerboard routines when you say "8 seconds X 3 sets with 1 minute rest between sets" is this 3 times of -- hang 8 seconds followed by a minute rest, or is a set more than one hang?

[SCIN]

Hey Chris, one set is one hang.

[pigsteak]

OK, Ray call me dumnb, but Fingerboard Level 1 workout...
1-Hold 1
2-Hold 2
3-Rest 2 minutes and repeat steps 1 and 2...

I can never get past step 3....I started this workout and after 4 and a half hourse was still on step 3...any help?

Also, in Level 2, am i missing step 15? I am assuming it is Hold 5 L3 fingers 8 seconds 4 sets...correct?

[SCIN]

Skip step 3 the 2nd time around. Yea, step 15 is missing in week 2. Also, here's level 7 for anyone interested. I plan on keeping this as my "maintenance" level throughout the climbing season.

Warmup:
1. Hold 1 - 4 fingers, 10 seconds X 4 sets with 20 second rests between sets
2. Hold 2 - 4 fingers, 10 seconds X 4 sets with 20 second rests between sets
3. Rest 2 minutes then repeat steps 1 and 2
4. Rest 4 minutes

Strength
1. Hold 2 - F3 fingers, 8 seconds X 3 sets with 1 minute rest between sets (30 pounds)
2. Rest 2 minutes
3. Hold 2 - L3 fingers, 8 seconds X 3 sets with 1 minute rest between sets (30 pounds)
4. Rest 3 minutes
5. Hold 5 - F3 fingers, 8 seconds X 4 sets with 1 minute rest between sets (30 pounds)
6. Rest 3 minutes
7. Hold 5 - L3 fingers, 8 seconds X 3 sets with 1 minute rest between sets (30 pounds)
8. Rest 5 minutes
9. Hold 3 - F3 fingers, 8 seconds X 3 sets with 1 minute rest between sets
10. Rest 5 minutes
11. Hold 3 - L3 fingers, 8 seconds X 3 sets with 1 minute rest between sets
12. Rest 5 minutes
13. Hold 4 - F3 fingers, 8 seconds x 3 sets with 2 minute rest between sets
14. Rest 5 minutes
15. Hold 4 - L3 fingers, 8 seconds x 3 sets with 2 minute rest between sets.
16. Rest 5 minutes.
17. Alternate between 2 fingers (middle 2) on hold 6 and Middle 2 fingers on hold 3 X 4 sets with 1 minute rest between sets
18. Rest 5 minutes
19. Lockoffs

[pigsteak]

maintenance? are you trying to kill me?
I could only get thru the warm up hangs on the moon board...and then I was shot....it truly sucks to be this weak.