Nevermore/Raven Rock

Post by **krampus** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 2:51 pm

3 or 4 # 6's ought to do

Post by **milspecmark** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 3:42 pm

Don't listen to Krampus, that is his standard answer for that question.

Post by **Jeff** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 4:12 pm

dfspau2 wrote:can any one tell me what all gear is needed to climb nevermore and some of the beta for the route?

Standard rrg rack, some slings. Big step in route commitment from BTFB to Nevermore (IMO).Be prepared to do some route finding while on the climb at about treetop level, and grab sack at the bolts and a couple of spots on the last part if you haven't dealt with much exposure.
Fun, memorable route.

Post by **dfspau2** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 4:22 pm

i have tripples from .5 to 2, a .75, and a 3, set of bd cams. a set of hex's, set of stoppers and pink through blue tri cams...and i could go out and buy all the slings i needed...so would i need any thing extreme? the top looks pretty wide? also how many bolts are there and are they all in the row...from what i had heard the addition of bolts compleatly canceled out the R rating of the climb and protected the cruz of the climb...

Post by **Jeff** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 5:24 pm

You should be good. We did it in 3 pitches, slinging a tree at top of p1 for an anchor. Ledge has bolted anchor, then top out/stance/old handrail.
3 new bolts start off ledge after traversing to them. I think there is an old stud between belay and first bolt you can cinch a wire on, or there is a marginal placement (helps the head)..
If you do 3 pitches, you won't have to use much gear to build anchors, but expect rope drag on last pitch from ledge to top.
Guess the new bolts eliminate the R, but that section was a littl heady.

Post by **dfspau2** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 6:24 pm

awesome...im going to try my best to get onto it asap

Post by **Clevis Hitch** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 10:31 pm

Do you guys think the new c3's would help in the flaring crack after the tree. That for me had the most deth dfyn to it. I pro'd it with a four lobe before. I don't think it woulda held.

Post by **ynp1** » Wed Jul 21, 2010 11:28 pm

C3's suck ass... so i would say no

Post by **Clevis Hitch** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 2:24 am

Why do you say that? I've found some great placements that would've been difficult or imposible with 4 lobed units of any denomination. So speak!

Post by **ynp1** » Thu Jul 22, 2010 3:02 pm

The trigger is a little fucked up and bulky and can get stuck in constrictions. Also, the trigger springs are a little strong and can push the loabs out of flared cracks.

I have mostly tried to use them on granite, so sandstone maybe different. I have used a full set on a few climbs and didn't like them. I bootied a number 1 C3 off of a climb and that is the only one that I have placed in the Red. Anyways, I think WC TCU are much better, or aliens (but those have 4 lobes).