i know of one for a fact that has broken a fall from roughly 30-40 ft.
rope went through the gri-gri and the belayer sprinted to get under the climber. broke their arms but saved the climber's life.
First, that is great, glad to hear they had the presence of mind to do that. But anti, in that case, the belayer lost control of the rope (their fault) and then tried to make the best of a bad situation. Belayers do not intentionally let go of ropes. Your argument doesn't apply to this situation...
So, I guess there is no point to putting a rope on the sack, lol. Joe, can just try to dive and catch the sack... And to think, all this time I was belaying incorrectly by holding on to a rope.
bcombs wrote:Joe or not... haven't we covered how crappy it is to post people's PM's?
I asked Joe to take things PM when I put out the original bet. Had he done so then, it would have remind an issue between us. He chose to make it a public affair, raise the bet to a grand and call me a fucking pussy for bonus. Joe doesn't deserve that courtesy.
Why wouldn't it count if I took the hit and caught my climber(sack o' dog food)? As a belayer who is doing their job. I would know that I couldn't get all the rope in before impact so my only choice would be to "spot". Manually catching the bag would be a catch. You see in the real world you do what it takes. Take for instance. "Manboy" was in the VRG and his climber rapped off of the end of the rope. Does manboy let dude die(read; seize in a puddle of their own blood)? Nope. He catches the dude with his hands, saving his life and breaking both his arms at the same time. Blah blah blah...et cetera. I could go on ad naseum...
You'll see fucktard. So make it a date. Set your time up and I'll be there and we'll see who's right. Then you'll pay up...
BTW it is a foul to publish someones PM's. But whatever, you won't own up to that either. You see, you are an idiot. You think everyone and everything else is to blame for your problems. You refuse to "own" anything. I fully expect you to whelch on the bet. Because you see...you refuse to take the blame for anything...
If you give a man a match, he'll be warm for a minute. If you set him on fire, he'll be warm for the rest of his life!
There are plenty of routes the belayer can't do anything to help the climber if they fall. If you go to Tuolumne, Eldo, El Cap, the Gunks, almost any trad area for that matter, there are just as many R or X routes as there are so-called "safe" routes. If the climber falls off an X-rated route and hits the deck is it the belayer's fault for not miraculously dropping through the earth to take out the extra slack? Sure, Breakfast Burrito is a sport route and shouldn't be so dangerous... but it was bolted in '95 back before everyone and their dog was rock climbing--back when route developers didn't feel the need to engineer all risk out of the sport (especially on 5.10), because climbers took responsibility for their own safety (just as CLee as done here, admirably), and the sport wasn't packed full of asswipes with big opinions.
You'll deck on the majority of sport routes if you fall while clipping the second bolt. Sometimes the belayer can do a little bit to help and in some cases keep you from getting mangled. But is it "their fault" you fell off and physics took over? Only if they had too much slack out, and in this case it wouldn't have mattered anyway. Is it the route developer's? Nope. Speaking of taking responsibility, the climber in this case should do the same--and indeed she already has. So what is your problem anyway Joe?
You are epitomy of an asshole. I have no problem taking your grand and donating it to a good cause...
But a pussy like you will come up with a thousand excuses why you saved the climber from decking with your diving catch. So, if you want to catch the sack then we will make it realistic...
1.) Sack will weigh 110 lbs. Orignally said 50 lbs, but that was assuming you would actually try to belay where 50 or 110 lbs wouln't make that much difference. I will make it approx. size/shape of the climber.
2.) You must be on belay, facing the rock and at the base of the climb.
3.) The sack will be thrown to where her head impacted.
4.) The sack must not touch the ground.
5.) Sack will be thrown from 3 ft. below the 2nd draw.
6.) Enough slack will be given to be able to make the clip without tension.
7.) No warning will be given before sack is thrown.
8.) Bring cash in hand, to be given to a 3rd party.
9.) You donate your grand to the RRGCC after you lose.
I'll donate $50 bucks to the RRGCC if no one tries to catch something that might break their arms. I think we let emotions get in the way (so easy here). I feel we got what we needed out of the thread: an honest assessment from climber, belayer and experts in the field and we have a few ideas to think and hopefully act on.
OZ wrote:It might also be worth noting that not every climb will allow for a good clipping stance at ideally placed intervals. No matter the good intentions of a bolter, sooner or later one will run into a situation with ground fall potential. It's all just risk assessment between the belayer and climber.
How is this situation dealt with when bolting at MV?
