trad rack

Post by **krampus** » Thu May 27, 2010 1:57 pm

ahab wrote:rack in fear

this guy is ready for calipso III

Post by **ahab** » Thu May 27, 2010 3:46 pm

lol, the more shit you buy, the more shit will end up on your harness that you don't need as you stand at the base of your next grand conquest and 'rack up in fear'.
minimalism is where it's at. it's the wave of the future.

go buy two hexes and two cams, lead roadside attraction and report back immediately for further instructions.

Post by **bcombs** » Thu May 27, 2010 4:14 pm

I "lead" Dicey at Best with two pieces. Only because I had just a single cam wide enough to work. Walked it all the way to the hueco below the anchors.

I suck at trad.

Post by **Andrew** » Thu May 27, 2010 5:13 pm

Aren't cams used for bolting routes? What is this trad yall are talking about.

Post by **dustonian** » Thu May 27, 2010 5:17 pm

For a RRG rack I recommend a 36V Bosch, 1/2" SS glue-ins, Hilti C100 epoxy, and a couple hooks...

Post by **jrathfon** » Thu May 27, 2010 5:22 pm

the lurkist wrote:How many gear sales have there been after guys who go out and buy a nice rack without realizing how scared they are about to make themselves go trad climbing for the first time?
I personally have benefited from a few.

here

scared for a good reason, but illustrates the point.

Post by **Clevis Hitch** » Thu May 27, 2010 8:25 pm

dustonian wrote:I recommend a 36V Bosch, 1/2" SS glue-ins, and Hilti C100 epoxy...

8)

Post by **Andrew** » Thu May 27, 2010 8:29 pm

I am not sure you get my point. The only thing I have used a cam for in the last three years has been to pull myself close to the rock to get a bolt in.

Post by **bcombs** » Thu May 27, 2010 9:36 pm

Omega cams are the absolute best for that swinging in wildly and slapping at the wall hoping for a good placement situation. 8) Once its in, drill away.

Post by **Josephine** » Thu May 27, 2010 9:47 pm

i think the best advice is to go with someone who has a rack and learn what you like and what you don't.

then wait for a gear sale from someone who's getting out of climbing. they really come along. in one year i had 2 friends get out of climbing and both offered to sell me their rack. so i have a beautiful rack full of nice toys