trad rating vs. sport

Post by **SCIN** » Thu May 06, 2010 12:16 pm

A slab 5.12c in North Carolina feels harder than a pumpy 5.12c at the Red to me. That MUST mean that slab ratings are harder than pumpy ratings right? I mean, it couldn't possibly mean that I'm just better at the pumpy stuff.

Post by **Andrew** » Thu May 06, 2010 12:53 pm

Your logic has no place here. Please remove it.

Post by **TradMike** » Thu May 06, 2010 3:59 pm

Trad grades and sport grades are the same. It's the protection that is different. Trad gear will take more time placing than quickly clipping a bolt which has already been placed for you. That time difference can be the difference in sending or not sending the same grade. You could dumb down the trad climb to a sport equivalent by pre-placing the trad gear on rappel.

Post by **wheelis** » Thu May 06, 2010 4:29 pm

at that point, you might as well just TR it...

Post by **ynp1** » Thu May 06, 2010 10:13 pm

man i really thought this post would die under one page... just shows not much is going on in the climbing community...

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu May 06, 2010 11:35 pm

TradMike wrote:Trad grades and sport grades are the same. It's the protection that is different. Trad gear will take more time placing than quickly clipping a bolt which has already been placed for you. That time difference can be the difference in sending or not sending the same grade. You could dumb down the trad climb to a sport equivalent by pre-placing the trad gear on rappel.

or actually you could bolt the trad lines so people could actually do what they say they are there for...climbing, instead of playing with cute clanky metal things, getting in 3-4 pitches in a day, and calling it a "climbing day"....trad is more about getting out of climbing than anything.

Post by **clif** » Fri May 07, 2010 12:24 am

ha. i thought it was over between us.

so i can have your static line now?

Post by **rjackson** » Fri May 07, 2010 12:34 am

pigsteak wrote:....trad is more about getting out of climbing than anything.

I thought it was more about climbing to get out (should you get stuck).

Post by **pigsteak** » Fri May 07, 2010 1:01 am

clif wrote:ha. i thought it was over between us.

so i can have your static line now?

lol...since I bolt to not actually climb, what would I do with myself?

Post by **cliftongifford** » Fri May 07, 2010 11:22 am

trad in the red is for those who want to avoid the crowds of people waiting in line to clip bolts.

the rrg is probably one of the best multi-discipline trad areas in the world with it's ridiculous amount of features. it's a training ground for bigger things, kinda like bouldering for mountains... i don't know of many summits around the world that are accessed by clipping bolts.

don't get me wrong, i love clipping bolts too.