trad rating vs. sport

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
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Crankmas
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Joined: Wed Jan 15, 2003 5:24 pm

Post by Crankmas »

trad ratings are like looking everywhere for your cellphone only to realize you have it in your hand and talking through it..
sport ratings are like being in a swimming pool and pissing only to wake up and realize you just wet the bed...
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Fartspray
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Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 9:41 pm

Post by Fartspray »

Frank.........
"I want to be in Kentucky when the end of the world comes, because it's always 20 years behind" - Mark Twain.
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ynot
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

I think you solved the problem when you said your jamming skills need work. The first move on vision is a fingerlock and the next two or three are solid hand jams after that its all cake. Into the purple valley is more about foot jams and solid hand jams. Climb alot more and you will learn to unlock the routes quiker. 8s and 9s will teach you basics, after that its more about technique.
Vision,what a sweet route with a cool view. are the copperheads still at the base?
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
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One-Fall
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Post by One-Fall »

Rotarypwr345704 wrote:Forget about the fucking ratings and just climb. Find a line that inspires you to get on it and just fucking get on it. Who cares what it's rated? Who cares if you fall? Who cares if you "onsight" it? Have an adventure. Run shit out. Stick clip every bolt. Just climb. Be nice to other people. And then have a pizza and beer after.
well said.
Can't we all just get along?
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Jeff
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Post by Jeff »

Crankmas wrote:trad ratings are like looking everywhere for your cellphone only to realize you have it in your hand and talking through it..
sport ratings are like being in a swimming pool and pissing only to wake up and realize you just wet the bed...
I like that!
Still not sure exactly why, but I like it!
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rjackson
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Post by rjackson »

Frank always seems to nail it...

Make it +2
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
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der uber
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Post by der uber »

Seems like we attempt to make the grades the same. It's just not as simple as saying you climb x grade on sport and then you get on a trad route and it feels harder.

There's different style involved, and if you are spending more time to place gear more frequently you are working harder then when you just clip and go. Or if you aren't good at jams and have to lay everything back when it's more efficient to jam sometimes.

But that doesn't mean the trad climb is of a harder grade.
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hamsco
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 1:16 am

Post by hamsco »

Sorry Jessie I haven't seen a copperhead at the base of Father and Son in a couple of years.
No creeds, manuals, or special translations
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hamsco
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Joined: Tue Nov 12, 2002 1:16 am

Post by hamsco »

Frank is my spiritual mentor, when he shows up.
No creeds, manuals, or special translations
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jordancolburn
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Post by jordancolburn »

Crankmas wrote:trad ratings are like looking everywhere for your cellphone only to realize you have it in your hand and talking through it..
sport ratings are like being in a swimming pool and pissing only to wake up and realize you just wet the bed...
I literally lauged out loud, thank you Frank.
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