Using the gri gri with less than a 10.
my experience- being a tad more robust than your average Madness Cave dweller my climbing partner who by the way ain't no twiggy himself can relate to ynp1 in that the lowering was more an issue than the fall catching, we really appreciated having a glove on the brake side- that was with the now gone 9.5, the 9.8 and above are no issue
I use a 9.5 Sterling Fusion and it works great with a grigri, although in the beginning I treated my grigri as though it were an ATC. Now the rope has swelled to where it feels like a 9.8 or a 10.
For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri. From my experience, it's harder to mess up. One of the caveats though is that it doesn't work on thick ropes.
For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri. From my experience, it's harder to mess up. One of the caveats though is that it doesn't work on thick ropes.
Again, just keep your hand on the brake end of the rope. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jlUlVyt6h0Meadows wrote:For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri.
I used a 9.5 with a gri-gri with no issues at all.
for brand new slick ropes under 9.8 you might get some slippage, but not during a fall, you will only get slippage under gentle load like really LIGHT climber gently leaning back on a vertical wall.
As long as the belayer isn't totally clueless it shouldn't be a problem. I'd wouldn't want to try the gri-gri with anything under 9mm though.
for brand new slick ropes under 9.8 you might get some slippage, but not during a fall, you will only get slippage under gentle load like really LIGHT climber gently leaning back on a vertical wall.
As long as the belayer isn't totally clueless it shouldn't be a problem. I'd wouldn't want to try the gri-gri with anything under 9mm though.
in the video you posted, if that happened with a SUM I don't think having your hand on the "brake" line would make a difference.caribe wrote:Again, just keep your hand on the brake end of the rope. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jlUlVyt6h0Meadows wrote:For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri.
Last edited by Shamis on Mon Apr 26, 2010 9:02 pm, edited 1 time in total.
I am almost certain that you are wrong. Tension from the break end would generate friction between the metal/ nylon interface and would lead the device to lock.Shamis wrote:in the video you posted, if that happened with a SUM I don't think having your hand on the "brake" line would make a difference.caribe wrote:Again, just keep your hand on the brake end of the rope. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jlUlVyt6h0Meadows wrote:For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri.
Um, did you watch that video? It was demonstrating that the SUM doesn't work with some carabiners.caribe wrote:Again, just keep your hand on the brake end of the rope. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jlUlVyt6h0Meadows wrote:For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri.
Watch the video again if you have to. The break end was not held. Isn't freaking obvious that with the weight of the climber on one end pulling up and your hand on the break at your hip that the device would rectify itself?Meadows wrote:Um, did you watch that video? It was demonstrating that the SUM doesn't work with some carabiners.caribe wrote:Again, just keep your hand on the brake end of the rope. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jlUlVyt6h0Meadows wrote:For skinny ropes, I prefer the SUM. That device is much easier to learn and it locks up more easily than a gri.