The ongoing weekend idiot report

Post by **anticlmber** » Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:30 pm

holy shit kramp, i think a little coffee came out my nose.

Post by **dustonian** » Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:42 pm

it's truly horrifying how many people climb a couple of days in the gym and think they are ready to start leading outside with zero instruction. time for a "climbing certification" program of some kind--like the Appalachian Mtn Club used to do in the 30s and 40 before you were allowed to lead anything! the threat of physical injury or worse is clearly not enough of a deterrent.

Post by **anticlmber** » Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:48 pm

darwin would be happy though.

Post by **tutugirl** » Mon Apr 26, 2010 3:50 pm

This is when as a belayer I would say "no way...you want to do what???" and sit on the rope...bring him down and let someone else do the belaying for this guy.

Post by **kato** » Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:14 pm

clif wrote:...this kind of approach to climbing...

Not enough detail to judge this incident specifically, but there are plenty of places to climb where it is acceptable and even necessary to do a bit of exploring. A person who learns in a predominantly multi-pitch trad area with little published info available will have a very different approach that what you may have.

In fact, I think going bolt-to-bolt and stopping right at the anchors, no looking to the right or left, is exactly what is taught in a gym. Follow the formula and do not vary.

Again, not necessarily meant to apply to this exact situation.

Post by **schwagpad** » Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:17 pm

Top outs usually suck in the red, especially on something not intended to be summited.

I've seen a certain unnamed climber try to top out blade runner because someone was climbing Danita Dolores, which shares the same anchor. Hold broke, fell, swung into the other climber and knocked him off the route. Not cool.

Post by **krampus** » Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:27 pm

I'm pretty sure that if this guy was top roping sunshine, he was not experienced enough to be leading. Probably trying to impress the girl at the bottom.

Post by **bcombs** » Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:35 pm

I was going to ask if there were chica's at the bottom. Some of the more hilarious feats I have witnessed at the crag are usually a result of showing off.

Post by **jordancolburn** » Mon Apr 26, 2010 4:56 pm

I've seen a guy try to impress some girls while sport rappelling by letting out a lot of slack and jumping, but too close to the ground....and rope stretch.....equals a very funny experience for everyone but that guy.

Post by **clif** » Mon Apr 26, 2010 6:31 pm

kato wrote:
clif wrote:...this kind of approach to climbing...
Not enough detail to judge this incident specifically, but there are plenty of places to climb where it is acceptable and even necessary to do a bit of exploring. A person who learns in a predominantly multi-pitch trad area with little published info available will have a very different approach that what you may have.

In fact, I think going bolt-to-bolt and stopping right at the anchors, no looking to the right or left, is exactly what is taught in a gym. Follow the formula and do not vary.

Again, not necessarily meant to apply to this exact situation.

this is what i was trying to understand. i'm not sure why you didn't understand. if this individual was mentored in an exploratory 'objective hazard' filled environment wouldn't they have been cognizant of climbing over their gear on friable rock ?

did i miss your point?