Accident at Darkside sat.
No belay device causes falls. Just some are easier to make a fatal error with--like holding down the cam during a fall. I have heard that the Cinch is even easier to make that mistake with than a Gri Gri, but neither device is bad, you just have to be aware and not hold the cam down accidently during a fall. (I am not suggesting anything about the cause of this particular accident)
Anytime I have seen someone deck while a belayer was using a Cinch or Gri Gri, the belayer was clamped down on the cam of the belay device and holding it open instead of grabbing the rope.
Anytime I have seen someone deck while a belayer was using a Cinch or Gri Gri, the belayer was clamped down on the cam of the belay device and holding it open instead of grabbing the rope.
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.
I haven't heard much talk about wearing helmets in here. If you fall 100 feet, a helmet won't help, but most of the falls at the Red are from much less. Even falling trying to make the first clip can cause a head injury. If you can protect your noggin, a broken leg heals OK usually. I know they are hot and not cool, but.....
Steve
Steve
It's so easy to feel like one wouldn't need a helmet on well-travelled sport routes, but a person died this year on a 5.10 sport route that I have climbed at least 100 times. His toe clipped something on the way down, which flipped him over and he swung into the rock head first. Same thing happened to my husband on a normal fall off of the crux of King Me (except he didn't hit his head on the rock--just flipped upside down). Something to think about. I don't even own a helmet and have never climbed in one. Are they distracting or heavy to wear?
Hauling a big ego up a route adds at least a full grade.
this is one area where i advocate buying the best. the petzl meteor III is light weight and i really do forget i have it on. it's expensive, but worth it.steep4me wrote:I don't even own a helmet and have never climbed in one. Are they distracting or heavy to wear?
"Unthinkably good things can happen, even late in the game." ~ Under the Tuscan Sun