Accident at Darkside sat.

Post by **newjax311** » Wed Apr 21, 2010 10:27 pm

I use a Cinch, has it been ruled out that the Cinch had nothing to to with the fall? I would like to know for certain from someone who knows before I put someone's life on the other end of one.

Post by **steep4me** » Wed Apr 21, 2010 10:50 pm

No belay device causes falls. Just some are easier to make a fatal error with--like holding down the cam during a fall. I have heard that the Cinch is even easier to make that mistake with than a Gri Gri, but neither device is bad, you just have to be aware and not hold the cam down accidently during a fall. (I am not suggesting anything about the cause of this particular accident)

Anytime I have seen someone deck while a belayer was using a Cinch or Gri Gri, the belayer was clamped down on the cam of the belay device and holding it open instead of grabbing the rope.

Post by **Steve_RRG** » Wed Apr 21, 2010 10:52 pm

I haven't heard much talk about wearing helmets in here. If you fall 100 feet, a helmet won't help, but most of the falls at the Red are from much less. Even falling trying to make the first clip can cause a head injury. If you can protect your noggin, a broken leg heals OK usually. I know they are hot and not cool, but.....

Steve

Post by **Josephine** » Wed Apr 21, 2010 11:10 pm

helmets aren't always hot. get a petzl meteor III in white. lots of ventilation and so light i forget i'm wearing it. i may look like a dork, but i'm ok with that

Post by **dustonian** » Thu Apr 22, 2010 12:16 am

Ridiculous as it may seem, you guys would surely be the first climbers at Dark Side wearing helmets if you were to do so. Who knows, you could start a new trend!

Post by **Josephine** » Thu Apr 22, 2010 1:42 am

actually - i've already climbed at darkside wearing my helmet

Post by **dustonian** » Thu Apr 22, 2010 1:44 am

Nice! Too bad it didn't catch on

Post by **steep4me** » Thu Apr 22, 2010 1:47 am

It's so easy to feel like one wouldn't need a helmet on well-travelled sport routes, but a person died this year on a 5.10 sport route that I have climbed at least 100 times. His toe clipped something on the way down, which flipped him over and he swung into the rock head first. Same thing happened to my husband on a normal fall off of the crux of King Me (except he didn't hit his head on the rock--just flipped upside down). Something to think about. I don't even own a helmet and have never climbed in one. Are they distracting or heavy to wear?

Post by **Josephine** » Thu Apr 22, 2010 1:59 am

steep4me wrote:I don't even own a helmet and have never climbed in one. Are they distracting or heavy to wear?

this is one area where i advocate buying the best. the petzl meteor III is light weight and i really do forget i have it on. it's expensive, but worth it.

Post by **steep4me** » Thu Apr 22, 2010 2:06 am

good to know--thanks!