"Seam" route at Chocolate Factory

Post by **pawilkes** » Wed Apr 07, 2010 11:41 pm

they don't always heal properly though. six years later and i still can't run

Post by **flashmaster** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 12:38 am

thats cause you're a pansy!! Run through the pain!!!

Post by **Sandman** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 2:23 am

Please dont bolt this... Im psyched to return and suss it out and attempt to lead it again. Could be an amazing line to headpoint. I put in m ground up go and paid the consequences

Post by **MADMIKE** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 3:17 am

Yo Sandman,
I put the anchors in and the bolt. I am heading back out there this weekend to take out the one bolt on it. I have done the route on top rope a couple of times, but never from the ground up. The only gear in the seam is at the bottom (TCU's) and the micro nut that you placed. It is a little run out after that point up to the next gear placement, which is above the seam. It would definitely get a "R" rating, possibly "X". It really had cool movement on the route, but the seam is shit for gear. I believe the best thing would be to bolt it, or don't fall! I couldn't get the micro nut to stay either. I was gonna bolt it, but I think that I will wait a while to see if it goes on gear. PM me for the beta if ya want it! Cheers, Mike

Post by **dustonian** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 3:19 am

hybrid aliens?

Post by **MADMIKE** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 3:24 am

Oh yeah, I think the grade is around 11d/12a.

Post by **rjackson** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 2:15 pm

Cool. Personally, I'd like to see it go on gear if possible.

BTW, what inspired you get on this line rather than any of the existing, established lines that surround it? Or did you already get on those lines and this is all that's left? Curious...

Post by **Sandman** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 2:28 pm

We went to that side of the wall to warm up... the goal of the day was to get on Charlie. The seam just looked like a rad route, and i didnt really know it was an R/X route. And i tried it in the sun on a 90 degree day, 2 days on crutches and 2 days of limping in pain are making me think about that choice... But i still dont believe we should bolt. There is nothing wrong with having some "bold" routes around. It can go on gear... will just take the right person to have the inspiration and willingness to do this route in that style. We have hundreds of 12a sport routes in the red.... i think its better to mix it up and keep it pure for someone to do in good style.

Post by **rjackson** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 2:39 pm

Awesome...

Also - if you're out there and bored, I've been trying to get someone on Through The Looking Glass to check the grade. Sounds like you might be the man.

Hope you heal soon, guess it's the price we pay sometimes (been there, done that).

Post by **pigsteak** » Thu Apr 08, 2010 11:44 pm

I agree with the consensus to leave it for bold climbers, so good luck to all who try to send.

I only take exception with sandman's use of the words "Pure" and "good style"....

Your first attempt was just that, but headpointing is merely rehearsed toproping, not any more "pure" than clipping bolts....unless I suppose you don't use the arbitrary anchors that were put in 30 feet from the top for convenience...and take it to the top...now that'd be pure.

sorry to digress...and just so you know, I am a puss and NOT the person to try that route....hamsco and rjackson have seen my trad climbing skills.