I thought it was nice of Joe Kinder to man up like this.
http://www.joekindkid.com/?p=3653
Joe comes clean
Cool that he learned and owned up (although would be nice to ask around before putting bit to stone). Those redheads are definitely shit and shouldn't be used ANYWHERE, especially here.
On a related note, how do folks feel about the solid SS vs. zinc-plated issue? I try to only use SS, especially for more "critical" bolt locations, but damn they are expensive. Seems like given the rain and humidity levels in the Red, solid SS 3.75"x1/2" expansion (or even better, SS glue ins) SHOULD be the standard here if we really want long-term durability and avoid replacing bolts every decade or two. But it seems like maybe 50-75% of the bolts in the Red are rusted badly or headed steadily that way (and often the hanger is stainless, but the bolt is not, giving the illusion of bomberness). These sorta time bombs can be a bitch to pull out and replace, leading to a plethora of holes all over the place during the span of 10-20-30 years (not that long really)... a common site at many 'older' sport crags, especially limestone it seems.
Anyway, just putting that out there and curious what people think. If there were some sort of "slush fund" to support solid SS bolting, I'm sure it would happen a lot more frequently and become the standard in the Red. I personally feel that would be a great use of collective resources a la "bolting donations" from all climbers or a hedge fund from the RRGCC (once the purchase of the PMRP is looking certain). This has been happening in other areas, such as the ORG & Pine Creek in the eastern Sierra, Thailand, and many other crags via the ASCA (albeit more for rebolting) for a while now. As it is, saving $5 or so per bolt is probably going to continue the trend of rusting hardware after a few years of Kentucky spooge. Thoughts?
On a related note, how do folks feel about the solid SS vs. zinc-plated issue? I try to only use SS, especially for more "critical" bolt locations, but damn they are expensive. Seems like given the rain and humidity levels in the Red, solid SS 3.75"x1/2" expansion (or even better, SS glue ins) SHOULD be the standard here if we really want long-term durability and avoid replacing bolts every decade or two. But it seems like maybe 50-75% of the bolts in the Red are rusted badly or headed steadily that way (and often the hanger is stainless, but the bolt is not, giving the illusion of bomberness). These sorta time bombs can be a bitch to pull out and replace, leading to a plethora of holes all over the place during the span of 10-20-30 years (not that long really)... a common site at many 'older' sport crags, especially limestone it seems.
Anyway, just putting that out there and curious what people think. If there were some sort of "slush fund" to support solid SS bolting, I'm sure it would happen a lot more frequently and become the standard in the Red. I personally feel that would be a great use of collective resources a la "bolting donations" from all climbers or a hedge fund from the RRGCC (once the purchase of the PMRP is looking certain). This has been happening in other areas, such as the ORG & Pine Creek in the eastern Sierra, Thailand, and many other crags via the ASCA (albeit more for rebolting) for a while now. As it is, saving $5 or so per bolt is probably going to continue the trend of rusting hardware after a few years of Kentucky spooge. Thoughts?
According to Rick Weber's book here: http://www.muirvalley.com/pdf/BoltingRed17.pdf it says that "The Dynabolt Gold Sleeve Anchor is manufactured by ITW Ramset/Redhead." So is everything made by ITW Ramset/Red Head http://www.ramset-redhead.com/ crap?
I hope not because according to Rick's book, there has been approximately 2000 Dynabolt Gold sleeve anchors installed in the Red. His book also said they don't make Dynabolt Golds anymore.
This picture of the Dynabolt looks identical to what he calls a Redhead:
http://www.itw-redhead.com/dynabolt_prod01.asp
compare:
http://www.joekindkid.com/wp-content/up ... g_0413.jpg
I hope not because according to Rick's book, there has been approximately 2000 Dynabolt Gold sleeve anchors installed in the Red. His book also said they don't make Dynabolt Golds anymore.
This picture of the Dynabolt looks identical to what he calls a Redhead:
http://www.itw-redhead.com/dynabolt_prod01.asp
compare:
http://www.joekindkid.com/wp-content/up ... g_0413.jpg
Last edited by Redpoint on Mon Mar 29, 2010 6:06 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut
I believe the boy's got a point, but I didn't read it so I couldn't tell ya for sure.
And in the tradition of online bashing, does it seem like Joe is trying to pass his work on to the locals, I got the "its out of my hand now" feeling from the article.
And in the tradition of online bashing, does it seem like Joe is trying to pass his work on to the locals, I got the "its out of my hand now" feeling from the article.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
yeah, it should be the bolter who takes care of it but it's a lot better than nothing i suppose, and at least his blog is widely read.
This is funny, "It was basically the first route I bolted that wasn’t a link-up or a variation." uhh, if southern smoke is not a variation/linkup I'm not sure what is.
This is funny, "It was basically the first route I bolted that wasn’t a link-up or a variation." uhh, if southern smoke is not a variation/linkup I'm not sure what is.
all you haters die slow.