Crouching Tiger
Crouching Tiger
Yesterday I redpointed Ray's route "Crouching Tiger" 11b. This is "Hidden Dragons" incredible little brother. If you're looking for something unique and extremely cool you should check it out.
Thanks. Ray encouraged me to get on it or I would have never attempted it. I thought it would take forever after my total bungle of an onsight attempt. It's a trip climbing this thing -- like an other-worldly experience cause it's all upside down and side ways and strenuous in lots of wierd places at the same time. 'when I was in the middle of the crux and close to falling at any minute, for some ridiculous reason I calmly asked "Will I hit the ground if I fall right now?". The people on the ground replied "Probably not but you'll probably hit the wall real hard.". I moved my body position only slightly to a better position and knew I would send it.
I was wondering about that large chockstone in the upper part that wiggles back and forth and seems like it wants to come out completely. It offers a cool jam and a bit of a problem getting around but I was wondering if it would be better if it were rolled out. When you grab the top it rocks forward and almost feels like it's coming out. It has a new looking crack in the bottom too that may be allowing more motion. What are the ethics of removing such a chockstone?
One more thing. A piece of that crimp on the side facing toward the crack broke off but there is still plenty of crimp to crimp.
I was wondering about that large chockstone in the upper part that wiggles back and forth and seems like it wants to come out completely. It offers a cool jam and a bit of a problem getting around but I was wondering if it would be better if it were rolled out. When you grab the top it rocks forward and almost feels like it's coming out. It has a new looking crack in the bottom too that may be allowing more motion. What are the ethics of removing such a chockstone?
One more thing. A piece of that crimp on the side facing toward the crack broke off but there is still plenty of crimp to crimp.
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