So, just as my training was peaking, spring was getting good, and I scored a four-day weekend schedule, I tore my A1 (Smith Rock, fuck that place). Ultra-lame.
So, I'm taking this as an opportunity to climb all the tard cracks that I can, while I wait for the finger to heel. I'm thinking about getting on B3; that thing looks amazing. However, does anyone know if it has any hard right hand crimps on it?
Oh, and pre-emptively, I know that some people are going to tell me just to stay completely off the rock; I am not looking for that sort of advice. I have climbed cracks with past tendon injuries, and like to think I am an experienced enough jammer that I know how to use my bones, and not muscle and tendons, to hang off of. All I want to know is how are the non-jamming moves on B3?
B3: Give me Micro-Beta!
B3: Give me Micro-Beta!
faceholdonacrackclimbDAB!
Have you been on it? The crack pretty much ends, and you have 5-10 feet of face climbing to the ledge. This is, by the way, the 5.11 part of the route, pretty much 5.10 crack climbing otherwise.clif wrote:hmm.. anyone think the crimps are optional?
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
I seem to remember that when the crack ends you kind of use your right hand to Gaston and then its up to a small left crimp and if you are lucky, you hit the GOOD right hand crimp. Just tape that shit so it can't bend much and pull!
Oh man, he is messing that up. However, he is missing his left leg so that way would probably be harder for him. SCIN, just before spraying some beta for a climber doing a route the WRONG way.
The cliff notes version:
5.7 OWish sorta corner for a bit.
Easy traverse left.
Steep, but slammer fingers for a bit.
Steep hands, but the crack is wavy, so you get great jams.
Hands thin out, but still pretty good (this is the hardest part of the crack climbing, at least for me).
Push left to a horizontal #2 camalot crack, this is your rest before the crux.
Maybe 3-4 move v1sh, crimpy face boulder problem to the break.
Crawl onto/into the ledge for a rest.
Tricky move into the upper corner
Balancey stemming thinner gear.
Thruch for the jug by the chains and try not to take the big ride.
Overall, one of the top five trad pitches I have been on, never got back to give it the send go though. Up there with the crux pitch of wild hickory nuts, specterman, Annnuki, etc. Was my favorite til I got on wild hickory nuts...
5.7 OWish sorta corner for a bit.
Easy traverse left.
Steep, but slammer fingers for a bit.
Steep hands, but the crack is wavy, so you get great jams.
Hands thin out, but still pretty good (this is the hardest part of the crack climbing, at least for me).
Push left to a horizontal #2 camalot crack, this is your rest before the crux.
Maybe 3-4 move v1sh, crimpy face boulder problem to the break.
Crawl onto/into the ledge for a rest.
Tricky move into the upper corner
Balancey stemming thinner gear.
Thruch for the jug by the chains and try not to take the big ride.
Overall, one of the top five trad pitches I have been on, never got back to give it the send go though. Up there with the crux pitch of wild hickory nuts, specterman, Annnuki, etc. Was my favorite til I got on wild hickory nuts...
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda