worst sport climbs in the Red

[lena_chita]

I went back and looked at what i rated thw routes as, after I climbed them.

The ones that only got one star were

Redriveroutdoors.com
Redeye Brew
Peer Review
mercy miss Percy

Can't really remember what i hated about these routes...

[ahab]

days of thunder
abby gabby doo
trundling trolls
valor over discretion
jump 4 jizz
cordelia
stealing melinda
norway on my mind
dragon's mouth
mercy miss percy
IROP @ the hideout
rorscach inkblot test

listing these, i'm reminded of a thread caribe started a while back about grade to star ratios. it seems the gorge sandstone lends itself to high quality 5.11>.
the rock quality at the lower grades generally sucks.

[cliftongifford]

Abby Gabby Doo
Valor Over Discretion
Bombardier
Mercy Miss Percy
Mr. Bungle
Redriveroutdoors.com
Brother Stair
Stay Left
Danita Dolores
Stem Cell
Lord of the Flies
Virgin Bolter Tag Team
Raindancer
Lucy Goosey
Trundling Trolls
Fast Food Christians
Universal Gravitation

are all routes I wasn't super impressed with... some more than others.

[lena_chita]

listing these, i'm reminded of a thread caribe started a while back about grade to star ratios. it seems the gorge sandstone lends itself to high quality 5.11>.
the rock quality at the lower grades generally sucks.

Isn't it the case in general though, on almost all sport-climbing areas? Regardless of where you look ,the list of "recommended routes" usually is heavier on routes that are .11>, and sort-of sparce of <.10.

It could reflect a personal bias of people who do the recommendations, too, b/c if their opinion is being solicited, they are generally stronger climbers, and they are more likely to recommend harder routes...

[schwagpad]

Climbing also gets less fun on the hard end. There must be an optimal grade. 12b to 13b

[ahab]

Isn't it the case in general though, on almost all sport-climbing areas? Regardless of where you look ,the list of "recommended routes" usually is heavier on routes that are .11> , and sort-of sparce of <.10.

i'm sure you are right, but i wouldn't know from 1st hand experience as i'm stuck in some sort of rrg climbing purgatory and haven't travelled out much...perhaps i should not vote at all...

It could reflect a personal bias of people who do the recommendations, too, b/c if their opinion is being solicited, they are generally stronger climbers, and they are more likely to recommend harder routes...

good point. that would explain why just about every 5.13 'round these parts gets 5 stars.



http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtopic.php?t=9192

[Rollo]

RRO ...good to know you had nothing to do with it... cuz it would've been bad for business.

ahab ...what's the problem with Stealing Melinda? i mean... you can stand there and look at all 20 feet of it.... ascertain that it probably has a couple of cool moves (not hard since it"s 5.9)...and it ain't gonna take but 5minutes of your time with cleaning.

it's not like you had high hopes... i hope.

[Wes]

I haven't done most of the ones showing up, but agree with a few of them that I have done. But, I will say, the odds of climbing a crappy sport or trad route among all the routes out there are pretty small, and you can almost always tell from the ground that it is going to suck. Everyone has different tastes though, and there are more then a few routes that get poor online reviews that I think are a blast. And, as far as crappy routes, the sport routes have nothing on the trad routes, probably 99% of the "will never do, or do again if I was unlucky enough to do it once" routes are trad.

And, one more for the list - red tag rape. Probably should have just ended it at the bulge and had a 3 bolt 5.9, but since I already had all the rest of bolts in, just left it. It doesn't climb nearly as good as I thought it would when I first looked at it.

[ynot]

yup there are lots of crappy trad routes, but the good routes start about 5.8 instead of 5.11

[One-Fall]

Climbing also gets less fun on the hard end. There must be an optimal grade. 12b to 13b

Music to my ears, Dave, bc I will never be able to climb beyond those grades. Although I watched you FA Nagypapa and that looked like the coolest bit of climbing i have ever seen.