completely F'd

[caribe]

I did it on mona lisa overdrive..

You must have grabbed the one or two small holds on that route. I totally agree with Andrew. I have been climbing since Sept 2005. My tendons are only now starting to feel solid. I pushed it too far a couple times which benched me for ~month here and there. I believe that the musculature develops way in advance of the tendons and ligaments. Give your hand a few weeks. Shift to running and weight control. Then come back but criticize every route you think about attempting on the basis of usage of the injured hand. There was a period of 3 mos that I could not crimp with the left hand--open handed holds were ok.

[Andrew]

I am in my 10th year of climbing, and I definitely learned my lessons about tendons the hard way. I climbed through all my tendon injuries, but I had to significantly change how I climbed for a few months.

[Clevis Hitch]

I tweaked it the day before on Crack the whip. It started aching and I let up. I didn't even finish the route. the next day we went to Solar Collector, I did a lap on Super Pinch. Didn't feel warm but got on Mona Lisa anyway. I pulled on, reached up right handed to the honeycombed hold. Its basically the first hold off the ground. All the pressure was on my ring finger. I attempted to adjust a couple of times and it didn't feel any better. I decided to push through. I pulled in to throw to the left-handed rail and just when I got to it. POW!! It was so loud I asked my belayer if he heard it. Sure enough he did! I dropped off and looked to see if it was broken. The finger went completely numb. I packed it in some snow for a few minutes until we could close up business. Upon arriving at the truck it ws starting to swell. Not alot just a little.
Two days later and it still feels fat and stiff. The slight swelling limits the range of the finger and I'm not going to push it. Just soaking it in burbon and ibuprofen.

[toad857]

remember, 20 min ice, 20 min bourbon, repeat