tying ropes together to rappel

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
FujManiac
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Joined: Mon Mar 12, 2007 11:36 pm

tying ropes together to rappel

Post by FujManiac »

what knot do you use?

Let the gumby remarks begin.
:lol:
Jay
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Post by Jay »

Single overhand, aka the Euro death knot.
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Shamis
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Post by Shamis »

single overhand works and seems less likely to get stuck as well, just don't do it with brand new slick ropes.

If you're not scared of ropes getting stuck somewhere then just use something simple and bulky like a figure 8.

Or just use the standard double/triple fishermans, but make sure you practice that one before you use it. Some say the triple fishermans is a must, but I never bothered with it. double fisherman's was always enough.

Also, if it wasn't obvious...please don't rap off of any knot you haven't practiced or at least read about thoroughly in a book, because I would hate for you to mis tie a knot that you read about on the internetz and die.
Savage
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Post by Savage »

I have pretty much only used the figure eight. I'm not a fan of the euro death knot because of how its loaded. Just doesnt seem right from a mechanical standpoint.

I have never gotten the figure eight stuck, either. Unless you are rapping right to the end of the rope, its not super likely your knot will get stuck. When you pull the rope, the knot is pretty close to you by the time the rope falls through the anchor. Not much distance for it to get stuck at that point, but I suppose it does happen on occasion.
chriss
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Post by chriss »

I prefer the figure eight as well. For some reason I feel a lot more confident with it, and did not have any problems getting it stuck.
KD
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Post by KD »

double eight or a barrel aka bloodknot
Wes
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Post by Wes »

The figure 8 is actually very bad to use as a rap knot - there was a death a couple years ago because of it. When the overhand inverts, it forms another over hand. When the 8 inverts, you die. Never had problems with the overhand, just leave long tails and you are set.

If the overhand freaks you out, next best is square knot backed up with double fisherman's on each side - secure, but easy to untie.
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Wes
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Post by Wes »

Link: http://groups.google.com/group/rec.clim ... d65b?pli=1

Again, do not use a flat 8 as a rap knot. You run a serious risk of being dead. Flat overhand is fine. Rewoven 8 is fine. But, flat 8 can kill you.
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Josephine
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Post by Josephine »

i was taught to use an overhand w/long tails. craig leuben explained why he used that one and the other choices, but i don't remember all that. i just remember that the overhand works great, is simple to tie, can be untied, and gets the job done.
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michaelarmand
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Post by michaelarmand »

Wes wrote:Link: http://groups.google.com/group/rec.clim ... d65b?pli=1

Again, do not use a flat 8 as a rap knot. You run a serious risk of being dead. Flat overhand is fine. Rewoven 8 is fine. But, flat 8 can kill you.
Wow, good thing to know. I always use a rewoven 8.

I could see other knots being a little less bulky, but I don't see this as a deciding factor. Any knot you tie has some risk of getting stuck when you pull the rope. On rappel look for obstacles, trees, etc to minimize your chances.....
I've been a gumby longer than you've been climbing.
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