super funnyRyland wrote:A couple months ago, I was climbing at The Gallery . . .
Best Spray at the Cliffs
I stick-clipped the anchors on Dracula....It's scurry up there...Ryland wrote:A couple months ago, I was climbing at The Gallery and me and my buddy were working break the scene. These two guys came up who said they were staying at the red for a couple weeks. The first guy leads up calm like a bomb and hangdogs at literally every clip, then goes in direct after the 3rd or 4th clip, and uses a stick clip to TR through the crux.
In the meantime, I send break the scene and we get to talking. I told him I thought it was a really fun climb (in my opinion) and that it really didn't seem that hard for 12b and he told me it'd been downgraded or whatever. He asked me to compare it to something else so I ask him if he's climbed at the surf. I know comparing iniquity with break the scene is kinda ridiculous, but I have only climbed so much 12 at the red so I tell him that it's really different, but I don't know iniquity seems harder. They said they hadn't climbed there and in comparing iniquity (which he asked me to do) I go "well, it's just really reachy with big moves, totally differ- --- And he cuts me off like practically yelling, "No! No! No! Don't tell me anything don't tell me anything. I wanna onsight it." He looks at me disgusted as I've really just ruined the onsight for him. In response to him wanting the onsight, I'm like yeah well there's a really hard boulder problem at the bottom. He looks at me as if I've genuinely insulted him and and speedily responds, in all seriousness, with, "Dude. Did you not see. I just climbed this. 13b."
He continued to act like he was some sort of climbing god for whom I should recognize is capable of onsighting any 12b just because he bolt-to-bolts 13bs. I couldn't help myself and told him that there was no way he was going to onsight iniquity. Then he tried to flip it on me and say I was ruining the vibes in climbing. I almost felt bad about condemning him to failure and then I reminded myself of how big of a douche bag he was.
By the way, stick clipping in the middle of a route- UBERgay.
Heh, funny story. If that guy really said "I just climbed this 13b," he was a grade-A douche.shear wrote:I stick-clipped the anchors on Dracula....It's scurry up there...Ryland wrote:A couple months ago, I was climbing at The Gallery and me and my buddy were working break the scene. These two guys came up who said they were staying at the red for a couple weeks. The first guy leads up calm like a bomb and hangdogs at literally every clip, then goes in direct after the 3rd or 4th clip, and uses a stick clip to TR through the crux.
In the meantime, I send break the scene and we get to talking. I told him I thought it was a really fun climb (in my opinion) and that it really didn't seem that hard for 12b and he told me it'd been downgraded or whatever. He asked me to compare it to something else so I ask him if he's climbed at the surf. I know comparing iniquity with break the scene is kinda ridiculous, but I have only climbed so much 12 at the red so I tell him that it's really different, but I don't know iniquity seems harder. They said they hadn't climbed there and in comparing iniquity (which he asked me to do) I go "well, it's just really reachy with big moves, totally differ- --- And he cuts me off like practically yelling, "No! No! No! Don't tell me anything don't tell me anything. I wanna onsight it." He looks at me disgusted as I've really just ruined the onsight for him. In response to him wanting the onsight, I'm like yeah well there's a really hard boulder problem at the bottom. He looks at me as if I've genuinely insulted him and and speedily responds, in all seriousness, with, "Dude. Did you not see. I just climbed this. 13b."
He continued to act like he was some sort of climbing god for whom I should recognize is capable of onsighting any 12b just because he bolt-to-bolts 13bs. I couldn't help myself and told him that there was no way he was going to onsight iniquity. Then he tried to flip it on me and say I was ruining the vibes in climbing. I almost felt bad about condemning him to failure and then I reminded myself of how big of a douche bag he was.
By the way, stick clipping in the middle of a route- UBERgay.
Speaking of Sticking up routes, here is a truly awful picture of a good friend of mine:
faceholdonacrackclimbDAB!
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No, that is a qualifying requirement to become a member of Team SuckWes wrote:I have hauled a stick clip up a route more then a few times. Just sport climbing 101 kinda stuff to me.
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh