Spraylord Wanted

Post by **pawilkes** » Tue Dec 08, 2009 10:18 pm

I headed up to Pebble Beach on Sunday and onsighted Brontosaurus. I couldn't believe how good the handjams were on that route, I don't know that I've ever felt that solid on my jams.

Post by **clif** » Wed Dec 09, 2009 12:08 am

jrat-no, i'm just jealous.

on the other hand, TR lapping OW is kind of retarded

but then again, you asked.

on second thought, i'd do it too.

FU*KING PAWILKES

nice. that line has been on my list since PJ's and CS's book first came out. why didn't you lay it back? chicken?

Post by **jrathfon** » Wed Dec 09, 2009 12:22 am

i agree TRing OW is retarded, but at 30 degrees, we were content with not leading, especially after my mostly unprotected top half excursion. and we didn't really work muscle shoals, it worked us. i did learn a thing or two though.

brontosaurus has awesome jams, but i definitely laybacked that thin hands crux.

Post by **rjackson** » Wed Dec 09, 2009 12:33 am

Nice job Phil! Tearing it up as usual!

Only wish I had been healthy enough to be there too. Cold/sinus infection is slowly subsiding and I'm watching the weather. Sounds like a shout goes out to Art for a good effort. At least there will be somebody left to get on it with me.

Jrat - Welcome to the pre-off-season season. Climbing doesn't have to stop here, you just change with the weather and learn to choose wisely.

Post by **pawilkes** » Wed Dec 09, 2009 2:15 am

what's your beef clif? you seem a bit grumpy with me.

Art came pretty close on Bronto, just lost it in the thin section. I layed it back there, just a move or two. you need good body awareness there and need to sort out the feet. Art'll get it next time out though.

Post by **clif** » Wed Dec 09, 2009 8:08 am

nothing, i just thought it was crazy to layback Andromeda so i was wondering why you changed the game. just a little encouragement.
indian creek is waiting.

Post by **caribe** » Wed Dec 09, 2009 3:08 pm

Art: Oh man, fingers are tired and numb I think I am going to lose it."
Phil: Is the pro good?
Art: Pro's good!
Phil: Go!
Art: ug, fuck! arg, ARRRGGG!"
and falls on a #1.
That is an awesome route. The hands were pretty good for me (a little tight) until the crack changed. I did not play the cards quite right though. I can't wait to get on it again.

Post by **pkananen** » Wed Dec 09, 2009 3:30 pm

caribe wrote:Art: Oh man, fingers are tired and numb I think I am going to lose it."
Phil: Is the pro good?
Art: Pro's good!
Phil: Go!
Art: ug, fuck! arg, ARRRGGG!"
and falls on a #1.
That is an awesome route. The hands were pretty good for me (a little tight) until the crack changed. I did not play the cards quite right though. I can't wait to get on it again.

Same thing happened to me my first time, but it was a .75. Went down the second time, a year later.

Post by **rjackson** » Wed Dec 09, 2009 3:40 pm

caribe wrote: Art: Oh man, fingers are tired and numb I think I am going to lose it."
Phil: Is the pro good?
Art: Pro's good!
Phil: Go!
Art: ug, fuck! arg, ARRRGGG!"
and falls on a #1.

Classic.

Post by **caribe** » Wed Dec 09, 2009 4:05 pm

pkananen wrote:Same thing happened to me my first time, but it was a .75. Went down the second time, a year later.

Ha ha, come to think of it. I think is was 0.75. The pro was at my feet and I was a couple moves away from bomber.