Sport lines in wilderness areas

Post by **Crankmas** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:42 pm

I'll be your Funkadelic Huckleberry

Post by **caribe** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:45 pm

OK, but if the project is only partially funded lets prioritize and go ahead with what can be done given resources available. Let's set a time line, a date, and plan to mobilize personnel and material. We can have another crack at it at a later date if need be. And need there will be.

Post by **Jeff** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:46 pm

Appreciate all the offers of help and it is sure welcome. At the risk of bogging down the thread, right now Matt and I are working out the details of what all is needed and a goal $ amount.
Once that info is together we will proceed from there and start posting work dates/requests for help.
This will happen.

Post by **krampus** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:47 pm

I suppose that we won't be able to add anchors to Up Swift Creek, or Goodshone then. If no one objects then please send me a pm with the rout you want to commit to. If you can't do a whole rout try to find a friend to join with you. I will post updates on what is left, after we have a few I will talk to Jeff about getting the money together and this thing rolling. Based on Ricks post lets consider the total cost to be $7 a bolt (this includes bolt, glue, taxes, shipping ect.). If there is anything left over it will be donated to RRGCC or Team Suck (probably Team Suck as this is a bolting extravaganza). It would be nice to know whats going to happen within a week or two so please don't be shy.

Post by **Ascentionist** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:48 pm

weber wrote:
But, as for bailing at an en-route bolt, we just hope that won't be a frequent, and therefore, significant wear factor.

Maybe a semi-fixed bail biner below known cruxes? I don't know, something hard to remove while hangdogging a route but easy to remove with the proper tools (ie: wrench, hacksaw).

That might mitigate the long term wear, but its going to be more cost and freak out people who can't deal with a fixed biner mid-route.

Of course education is key, maybe a prominent caveat in this guide and any future printed guides for the FRC area and any that use glue-ins about the dangers of lowering directly off the bolt would be helpful.

Post by **ahab** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 3:56 pm

aktion: delete

Post by **weber** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:03 pm

caribe wrote:
weber wrote:$4 per 8mm x 4 3/4 Titt bolt from Jim Taylor. That's the bigger one that we could not get to fail in pull tests
Rick I was hoping you would comment. These are timeless stainless steel right?

Timeless? Gee, that's a long time.

These are 304 Stainless Steel, passivated to minimize what little corrosion might develop. I've never seen even a stain of corrosion on the ones we've installed.

For those fascinated by anal details (i.e. engineers and Caribe) there's a ton of info here, including how to install these bolts properly:

http://bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm

Post by **lena_chita** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:17 pm

I have never installed a bolt, and given my general experience with drills (they usually spin me around, instead of the other way...) I am not a likely candidate for replacing the bolts.

But I will adopt "Go Easy Billy Clyde". I was on it last year and hated the mess at the anchors, but this being single-pitch sport climbing, I didn't have either extra slings, or a knife to cut off the old webbing and replace it.

if needed, I'll pick a second route, too.

How is money being collected? Who, when, etc...

Any other help that can be offered long-distance?

Post by **caribe** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:24 pm

lena_chita wrote:How is money being collected? Who, when, etc...

Krampus is stepping up. I PM'ed him a $ amount pledge of support.

Post by **captain static** » Wed Dec 02, 2009 4:27 pm

RRO wrote:We are contacting some companies for some hand drills and anchor set ups. We have talked about this for years. Lets get it done this time.

Thanks Matt & Jeff for taking the leadership on this. I will do what I can to assist. Since it sounds like we will have a large organized group of people out there at one time I will handle coordination with the Forest Service (Clifty Wilderness Prescription Area, 2.A-REC-8. Until the Limits of Acceptable Change process is completed, limit the size of groups to no more than 10 people. Groups over 10 may be allowed only under permit on a case-by-case basis when compatible with Wilderness management objectives.).

Have spent some time checking out the bolt products site. What do people think about their "Monster Hook" top anchor? http://www.bolt-products.com./SinglePointLower-offs.htm