Funk Rock - food for thought

[caribe]

Someone has to talk to the FS. . . .

Do you even read the posts on here?

WTF? Is this beat up your climbing partner week? Bram, nothing seems to be happening. LAC was discussed eons ago and we don't seem to have benefited from the discussion.

[Savage]

ASK,

Thanks for being a responsible climber and I'm sorry for doubting you guys... I'm just trying to do my part for protecting access. Best of luck on The Diamond!

[ynp1]

ASK, I don't think you did anything wrong, but why do you carry a hammer when you are clean climbing??? i know that ballnuts are almost impossible to clean with out a hammer... is that why?

[captain static]

They probably aren't as true as a power drill, but I think glue in's would be the way to go there, just because they last longer.

Glue-ins, all stainless, camo hangers we're talking some large there. But if the effort is made it needs to be done right.

This might be one of those situations in which many hand drills make light work. The RRGCC might think about organizing a trail day in which legions of climbers are armed with hand drills and we go en mass to FRC with the worst bolts on the most popular routes as our targets.

I would remind our readers here that maintenance of fixed hardware has never been part of the mission of the RRGCC. When we have gotten involved it has been in matters of unauthorized bolting and then only indirectly. "We are not bolt police." is as much of an RRGCC mantra as "If we own it, they can't close it.

Despite this history with regards to route maintenance, the drafting of a Climbing Management Plan, will beg the RRGCC's involvement in at least developing strategies for addressing this issue. And, as always, we are open for input and debate.

As a first step I would propose what is needed is for our community to develop an inventory of hardware conditions and maintenance needs in the Clifty Wilderness. This inventory could then be used to determine maintenance priorities. As a community, we could then hopefully motivate a group of climbers who are experienced and knowledgeable in bolting to at least address the most pressing needs from a safety standpoint.

[mike_anderson]

I've hand drilled lots of holes in sandstone (it seems like there's a "that's what she said" joke in here somewhere).

Surprisingly, it's not much more work to drill a 1/2" hole over a 3/8" hole. The key is to get in a rhythm and let the hammer do the work. I've spent anywhere from 15 minutes to half an hour to drill a 3 or 3.5" hole. If you're on rappel, it's not too bad. One person ought to be able to replace one route in a few hours, but you'd be pretty worked after one route. I don't think I've drilled much more than 10 holes in one day, but then if I was on a mission, I might be able to.

I've got a drill and a hammer....

[Jeff]

So is that an offer of manpower, or an offer of a loan? If you want to loan out your drill for the cause, I can arrange to meet up with you.

[mike_anderson]

Both. Just keep me in the loop if you want help. I believe strongly that the hardware should be paid for by the community. People need to realize that we are all responsible for crag maintenance...there isn't some anonymous bolt fairy that inspects fixed draws or replaces bolts.

[neuroshock]

There's a flaw in your logic in that your use of the phrases "the community" and "we are all responsible" don't actually represent what I think that you're hoping they represent.

It's likely not 'the Red River Gorge community of climbers at large' bearing the burden, but mostly the regulars on this forum. I've chipped in money before, and I'll likely do it again for this cause, but there are probably tens, if not hundreds, of climbers that visit the Red that do believe in the bolt faeries.

-Mike

[mike_anderson]

I agree. If you can think of a practical solution, let us know.

[clif]

if faeries wear boots.

then put the boots to them.

an idea from 'a clockwork orange' i think.