fuck this. real quick ratfuck, until you DO lines, don't bitch about star ratings. the reason stuff here gets 3stars or more, it deserves it. yeah im sure you've been on no moss 4 stars, they werwe in CO where two stars = great and moss doesn't grow. its wet here and moss grows,climbs seep but that's part of it. drop the snob or you'll be disappointed always.
i've traveled and the 2***s here are better than great weather on a 4*** there.
TR burns don't count for shit PERIOD. yeah it felt crappy on TR but thats how TR feels, crappy.
if you have to spray about your non-sends and bash ray fine, go elsewhere. filled the online guide with BS and then made ray cry. FUCK YOU. 3** can have choss if you don't know where to stand. also, if you knew it was chossy and you still got on it, shut the fuck up. "she was fat AND i fucked her but she was a crappy lay" you still fucked it asshole.
ray, eat a dick for thinking our shit is that good.
Spraylord Wanted
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anticlmber
- Posts: 3393
- Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 12:34 am
"she was still fat in the end" regardless of the crappy lay and my preconceived notion that she was fat. crap routes are crap, even if i got on them. choss=choss.
just cause i mark a route as a TR send, doesn't mean i haven't tried to lead it.
i gave ray props for an awesome guidebook. star ratings are typically user consensus and i honestly have no idea how bland, chossy, dirty routes consistently are rated 3.8 stars... that's the rant. i've been out to a few backwoods crags so far, and the stars are all over the place, good lines are 2 stars, and crap rhodo-munge fests are 4 stars. give one route per grade in the entire red a five star (maybe one each for trad and sport), one route per crag a 4 star (maybe two if the crag is absolutely iconic (motherlode), great routes 3 stars, good routes 2 stars, ok routes one, and not worth doing none. that's how every other 5 star guidebook i own works.
all i am saying is these crappy star ratings are a disservice, and bland out the really good lines. but hey, i'm happy nobody's ever on those hidden 4 star gems.
i hope your ego feels better after pouncing on me for TR-ing.
p.s. fixies are for ghey hipsters.
just cause i mark a route as a TR send, doesn't mean i haven't tried to lead it.
i gave ray props for an awesome guidebook. star ratings are typically user consensus and i honestly have no idea how bland, chossy, dirty routes consistently are rated 3.8 stars... that's the rant. i've been out to a few backwoods crags so far, and the stars are all over the place, good lines are 2 stars, and crap rhodo-munge fests are 4 stars. give one route per grade in the entire red a five star (maybe one each for trad and sport), one route per crag a 4 star (maybe two if the crag is absolutely iconic (motherlode), great routes 3 stars, good routes 2 stars, ok routes one, and not worth doing none. that's how every other 5 star guidebook i own works.
all i am saying is these crappy star ratings are a disservice, and bland out the really good lines. but hey, i'm happy nobody's ever on those hidden 4 star gems.
i hope your ego feels better after pouncing on me for TR-ing.
p.s. fixies are for ghey hipsters.
I'm completely aware of the star inflation in the print guide. I'm working on the 3rd edition as of this week and have already started re-evaluating the stars based on things I've heard about star inflation. I took the guide from a 3 star system to a 5 star system when I started doing it and I guess it's just taking some work to get it right. As far as stars go in the online guide I can't control what other people think. If people really like a route and want to give it 4 or 5 stars then they can do it.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!
-Horatio
-Horatio
I think the 5 star system is great. You summed up my opinions on the book. And my original rant was how the hell could people rate sunny the boxer 3, 4, or egad 5 stars, just doesnt make sense, hence why I wrote the rant on that climbs comment page. But I guess anticlmber just loves to bash on people to raise his self esteem, cross post, and rip on people who never stated any opinion towards the validity of a "TR send" (laughable term). But really, keep those 5 stars in Muir!
cause you seem to be bashing no one. I think anti just loves the area and is annoyed to see people who have little vested interest or history in the area blowing into town and bitching about the things that they didn't help create. Why don't you go hunt out some 5 star routes and send them so the rest of us can enjoy your hard workjrathfon wrote:But I guess anticlmber just loves to bash on people to raise his self esteem
Sand inhibits the production of toughtosterone, so get it out and send.
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anticlmber
- Posts: 3393
- Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 12:34 am
i have no self-esteem first off. secondly, bashing fuckstick doesnt raise it, it lowers it because i become what i hate.
thirdly, if we dint give routes three stars nobody would ever get on them and clean them into the four-plus star routes they are.
by your words, TR'd it not to suss but look for gear, SERIOUSLY?!?!? what is sussing then?? a perv is a perv, whether you cum or not its still a perv.
seriously though, spray all you want but when you throw rocks in a pond that isn't yours, don't be mad when the fish bitch about the ripples.
thirdly, if we dint give routes three stars nobody would ever get on them and clean them into the four-plus star routes they are.
by your words, TR'd it not to suss but look for gear, SERIOUSLY?!?!? what is sussing then?? a perv is a perv, whether you cum or not its still a perv.
seriously though, spray all you want but when you throw rocks in a pond that isn't yours, don't be mad when the fish bitch about the ripples.
Like me on facebook but hate me in real life
besides, I pay Ray with "favors" when he gives my routes extra stars....don't ruin the good deal we got going.
jrathon, why should one route be given 5 star at a crag? now you are asking for YOUR opinion to take precedent over all the others? seems a bit, er, self esteem inflated to think you know best. exactly how many guidebooks do you own...two? cuz I just randomly pulled three off my shelf, and not a single one used your supposedly world wide rating system....oh crap..I just looked and I didn't have the autographed editions, so maybe mine were a misprint.
now on to my real question.....you are smoking crack if you think there is only one 5 star 12A at the entire Red, as you suggest. I can name you 10 off the top of my head....what route do you propose gets the one and only 5 star rating at the 12A grade?
lol...but seriously, if you have climbed your weight in routes around the US of A, surely you'd know that star ratings come in all over the board. and
jrathon, why should one route be given 5 star at a crag? now you are asking for YOUR opinion to take precedent over all the others? seems a bit, er, self esteem inflated to think you know best. exactly how many guidebooks do you own...two? cuz I just randomly pulled three off my shelf, and not a single one used your supposedly world wide rating system....oh crap..I just looked and I didn't have the autographed editions, so maybe mine were a misprint.
now on to my real question.....you are smoking crack if you think there is only one 5 star 12A at the entire Red, as you suggest. I can name you 10 off the top of my head....what route do you propose gets the one and only 5 star rating at the 12A grade?
lol...but seriously, if you have climbed your weight in routes around the US of A, surely you'd know that star ratings come in all over the board. and
Positive vibes brah...positive vibes.
so i apparently haven't proven myself worthy to have an opinion yet. sorry to intrude. i never forced my opinion on anyone, nor did i bash them (until the fixie comment). i was giving MY opinion. maybe one star per grade per the red was a hyperbole, but in my OPINION (since we like emphasizing in all caps) is that the stars are inflated, and well i expect more from a 4 star route, sorry if that offends your senses.
anticlimber i can take the ripples, i just think you come off as a teenager in his basement bedroom throwing shit around on the interwebs. i enjoy these discussions, hell i even enjoy your antics, in an argument i will continue to press upon my opinion that the stars are inflated, course i really don't mind, since it spreads around the hoopla that is the cragging around here.
i do yearn for the day i can climb those 14 five stars between ~12c and 14a at the lode, course i'd also love the day i could lead 12a trad, either way there'll be a lot of 5 stars to do.
my peni.... i mean my guidebook collection is bigger than yours... i actually am a fan of dick william's books, 3 stars, route descriptions (aka where to go), very little beta, colorful annecdotes, and G-X ratings, but in an area that has choss, moss, slime, dirt, and shitty routes, there aren't any three stars that really contain any of that. he also efffectively has a 5 star system anyways, because he has 3, 2, 1, stars, bolded, unbolded, and NOT RECOMMENDED, which would be the same as 5-0.
anticlimber if you must nit-pick my climbing style, i tried to on-site rebar, failed. TR'd two more times to dial it in. i'm not the god that you are, so i was tired after that. i was told we could get a TR onto riptide if we climbed that choss slab, it was still kind of fun, probably 2 stars. before even making the decision to TR riptide, i went over to check it out. i had been told the gear was odd and difficult to place. i looked up and saw numerous grass hocks, some mud, and a wasp nest throughout the route, so decided in my state i should just rap in, do about 10 minutes of cleaning, and TR it to end a great day. that's what i did, turned out i freed up two of the cam placements and two of the jams from mud and grass. i TR'd it and looked at the pockets, stuck my fingers in them, but didn't bring gear to "mock" it, does this hold up to your standards? (wait, i don't care) it was fun, probably should have left it for an on-site, but you know what, i was there to have fun, and i had fun, so i have no qualms about it, and now there aren't grass hocks in it.
moral of the story: i think the stars are inflated, i had fun this weekend, and yes, i do TR, anticlimber is infallible and does not TR.
now for a coffee stout.
anticlimber i can take the ripples, i just think you come off as a teenager in his basement bedroom throwing shit around on the interwebs. i enjoy these discussions, hell i even enjoy your antics, in an argument i will continue to press upon my opinion that the stars are inflated, course i really don't mind, since it spreads around the hoopla that is the cragging around here.
i do yearn for the day i can climb those 14 five stars between ~12c and 14a at the lode, course i'd also love the day i could lead 12a trad, either way there'll be a lot of 5 stars to do.
my peni.... i mean my guidebook collection is bigger than yours... i actually am a fan of dick william's books, 3 stars, route descriptions (aka where to go), very little beta, colorful annecdotes, and G-X ratings, but in an area that has choss, moss, slime, dirt, and shitty routes, there aren't any three stars that really contain any of that. he also efffectively has a 5 star system anyways, because he has 3, 2, 1, stars, bolded, unbolded, and NOT RECOMMENDED, which would be the same as 5-0.
anticlimber if you must nit-pick my climbing style, i tried to on-site rebar, failed. TR'd two more times to dial it in. i'm not the god that you are, so i was tired after that. i was told we could get a TR onto riptide if we climbed that choss slab, it was still kind of fun, probably 2 stars. before even making the decision to TR riptide, i went over to check it out. i had been told the gear was odd and difficult to place. i looked up and saw numerous grass hocks, some mud, and a wasp nest throughout the route, so decided in my state i should just rap in, do about 10 minutes of cleaning, and TR it to end a great day. that's what i did, turned out i freed up two of the cam placements and two of the jams from mud and grass. i TR'd it and looked at the pockets, stuck my fingers in them, but didn't bring gear to "mock" it, does this hold up to your standards? (wait, i don't care) it was fun, probably should have left it for an on-site, but you know what, i was there to have fun, and i had fun, so i have no qualms about it, and now there aren't grass hocks in it.
moral of the story: i think the stars are inflated, i had fun this weekend, and yes, i do TR, anticlimber is infallible and does not TR.
now for a coffee stout.