Russ,
Outstanding Man! Great work.
Can't wait to check it out in March.
Geoff
Spraylord Wanted
Nice send Russ!
So my question is what three pieces blew and why? I'm newish to the gorge and trying to get a feel for those tiny things that work oh so well in shawangunk quartzite and north conway granite like: micronuts, 00 C3, 0 C3, black and blue aliens, etc. Or were these just flaring placements or crusty rock?
This weekend did laps on autumn and rock wars, then did vector trouble, very fun!
So my question is what three pieces blew and why? I'm newish to the gorge and trying to get a feel for those tiny things that work oh so well in shawangunk quartzite and north conway granite like: micronuts, 00 C3, 0 C3, black and blue aliens, etc. Or were these just flaring placements or crusty rock?
This weekend did laps on autumn and rock wars, then did vector trouble, very fun!
I ran through it on the previous page, but in addition...jrathfon wrote:So my question is what three pieces blew and why?
The #0 C3 barely had bite (2 lobes) on a flaring placement on the edge of a non-existent constriction. The #1 C3 had bite, but was in a flaring and crusty placement. A direct downward fall on the #0 I thought 'might' catch, the #1 wasn't going to hold anything other than direct aid (softly applied). I placed both pieces as mental. The .3 C4 that blew was also in a flaring and crusty placement, not very deep and with no constrictions (I could have buried it but I didn't want to establish any fixed gear, or lose my piece). It may have held a shorter fall. The .5 that caught me was in the same flaring crack (a little less crusty) and I was able to find a good constriction on one side and the fit was perfect. I felt really good about that piece. Everything below that was also bomber.
It didn't seem like a big fall, but Chris said it was probably a 20 footer (by the time I stopped).
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Grand Funk Railroad
crusties and flare! bold! yeah, i must have missed the entire 6th page... i just tune in when i get update emails.
in my 8 or 9 weekends down at the gorge, my smallest placed pieces have been the red (#1) c3 and a #4 nut. i took two whippers on that #4, so seemed pretty happy with that. i haven't had the balls to wiggle in a blue alien yet... nor the need. the #6 c4 though!! oh yeah! p.s. cams are 20% off at ems.com right now.
in my 8 or 9 weekends down at the gorge, my smallest placed pieces have been the red (#1) c3 and a #4 nut. i took two whippers on that #4, so seemed pretty happy with that. i haven't had the balls to wiggle in a blue alien yet... nor the need. the #6 c4 though!! oh yeah! p.s. cams are 20% off at ems.com right now.
yup, it's been fun, i've had a few friends down, so i've done a number of repeats. i think i met you guys two weekends ago sunday morning on miguel's porch with tambo. i've had my go at muscle shoals and carnivorous, but i think now that i know what i'm getting into i can finish those two off.
high on my list right now are:
muscle shoals, carnivorous, rocket man
rebar, broken chicken wing, smoothie nut, riptide rush
jim's dihedral
that beene crack at military?
insanity ceiling
thunder chicken
it's gonna be a fun fall!
high on my list right now are:
muscle shoals, carnivorous, rocket man
rebar, broken chicken wing, smoothie nut, riptide rush
jim's dihedral
that beene crack at military?
insanity ceiling
thunder chicken
it's gonna be a fun fall!
Thanks. And I think Tamara's already onto you, meaning Hamsco isn't far behind. But I can keep a secret. Just ask Drew B...Crankmas wrote:Great work Russ- sorry I wasn't there to heckle... encourage you..
PS I know where there is some trad booty for you- don't tell Hamsco or Tamara I told you about it- Peace
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Grand Funk Railroad