another deck on TROCS

Post by **Shamis** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:26 pm

I don't know how high the first bolt is on this, but the next edition of the guidebook should probably start warning people that stick clips are no longer optional for sport climbing at the red. I've been on a dozen routes here that have very cruxy moves down low and a first bolt that is 15-20 feet high.

Do all new route developers assume everybody has a stick clip? I know pigsteak does.

Post by **Wes** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:36 pm

Shamis wrote:I don't know how high the first bolt is on this, but the next edition of the guidebook should probably start warning people that stick clips are no longer optional for sport climbing at the red. I've been on a dozen routes here that have very cruxy moves down low and a first bolt that is 15-20 feet high.

Do all new route developers assume everybody has a stick clip? I know pigsteak does.

WTH? Stick clips are always optional. I usually put the first bolt kinda high on my routes, but also try to make sure there is a good hold to clip it from if you chose not to stick clip. It is not the developers responsibility to make routes idiot proof. It you can't do the math on weather you can safely make it to the first bolt or not, then you deserve your broken ankle, etc. Or just use a stick clip. But, do not blame others for your incompetence.

Post by **krampus** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:49 pm

Mack5 wrote:Listen i was the one who fell sunday on TROCS...... for all of those wondering it was all my fault,
no i dont consider myself a gumbie considering the fact that i did Way up yonder my second go that day.... this climb is not way above my head.... it was an accedient on my part that could have totally been avoided if i just thought about it..... i agree dont put another bolt in, just learn from my expreience to not be stupied..... yes im owneing up to my own stupied accendent, there is no one to blame here except me.....and now as a 15 year old i fell like an idiot putting everyone in a bad position, i wasted your guys time and energy and im sorry for that. i feel awful now, ive lost very valubable climbing partners because of the accedent, and im sorry.
Lee everyone who was there said how important you were in the situation, im honared to be your friend and i think very very highly of you, im extremely sorry i put you in a bad situation,
Thank you and sorry
Dru

no one is blaming you bro, I've seen you climb, I know you were well withing your ability. Some accidents are just that, others are full of stupidity and could have been avoided easily. I would consider your situation and accident, its the stupid people I get annoyed with. Every time I don't stick clip, or put my gear rack on and run out a long section of rock I could easily deck or get hurt from the fall, accidents do happen and I have just bee lucky so far, I just hope that if i do mess up its not due to my own stupidity.

Post by **anticlmber** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 2:56 pm

hey mack (and all else) remember one thing. how hard or what you climb does not make you a non-gumby. learning how to use knowledge, sound judgement, and experience to evaluate risk and reduce it are what leads you on the path to nonG status.

throwing a name or number only solidifies it.

Post by **anticlmber** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 3:12 pm

no worries. and you don't have to apologize to me, i'd do it for anyone.

Post by **krampus** » Fri Nov 06, 2009 3:26 pm

Mack5 wrote:
krampus wrote:[, I've seen you climb, .

where....when???

And Anti.... i know many people will think this is troll but..... your a really good guy man and i just want to say thanks to you.

you elbowed me in the forehead when I spotted you on the opening of belly of the beast. And don't let his soft cuddly exterior confuse you, deep down anticlimbr is just waiting to eat your babies and rape your cats