Crag Talk

Gaston? High Step? Drop Knee? Talk in here.

How do you feel about talking about plastic pulling while real rock climbing?

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toad857
Posts: 1691
Joined: Thu Dec 13, 2007 4:31 pm

Post by toad857 »

round and round we go.
Brentucky
Posts: 869
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:04 am

Post by Brentucky »

Did someone already ask if it's cool to talk about an outside route if you're in a gym? Seems so obvious, maybe I just missed it. Strong gym rats have feelings too!
efil lanrete... i enjoy the sound, but in truth i find this seductively backward idea to be quite frightening
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bcombs
Posts: 2048
Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 4:20 pm

Post by bcombs »

True story... I saw an friend at the gym who asked "What are you working on". Without thinking I spouted off the current project at the gorge. Never crossed my mind to work something at the gym. Since then, that is about all I do.
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krampus
Posts: 3933
Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:31 am

Post by krampus »

Brentucky wrote:Did someone already ask if it's cool to talk about an outside route if you're in a gym? Seems so obvious, maybe I just missed it. Strong gym rats have feelings too!
I talk more about climbing outside at the gym than I do anywhere else (which isn't very much, cus we all know people don't want to hear it), I would rather be outside and the gym is getting me stronger to go outside, the opposite is not true. Patxi may be a badass, but I don't see the point.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
Brentucky
Posts: 869
Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2007 2:04 am

Post by Brentucky »

krampus, don't act like you think there is a point to anything a person doesn't think there is a point to; i know you better than that. paxti's point is to be the best at what he does, seems pretty good to me.
efil lanrete... i enjoy the sound, but in truth i find this seductively backward idea to be quite frightening
JR
Posts: 1128
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:18 pm

Post by JR »

Flipping this on its head.

I was talking about climbing routes at CT in Cincy and someone asked me "Doesn't climbing routes make you weak?" I had to admit in the short term it did. I tried to explain that maybe climbing routes would eventually help his gym climbing. He seemed excited about this possibility. His reply. "Maybe I'll try that".
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bcombs
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Joined: Sun Nov 02, 2003 4:20 pm

Post by bcombs »

Brentucky wrote:paxti's point is to be the best at what he does, seems pretty good to me.
Something I have been curious about though. Does anyone know what the difficulty of the world cup route tends to be? Is it even 5.14?

The reason I ask is that Paxti's training is the only thing that would work for Paxti's goal, to win a world cup. Sharma, Andrada, etc... are strong dudes. But, they work hard, sometimes 100's of attempts, to send these 5.15's. However, Paxti gets one shot to onsight the route and win the cup, or all that training is for nothing.

I guess what I'm saying is that at first glance I thought all the training Paxti did was way overboard, but he has one chance to do it, not 100's. I wonder what Paxti's onsight ability is outside.
JR
Posts: 1128
Joined: Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:18 pm

Post by JR »

I used to be very shy about stick clips, talking about gym climbing, clipping bolts, matching draws and low end climbing shoes. I was very aware of all things gumby at the crag. Ironically, I thought that sneaking around climbing every dirty ass 5.7 corner in the Red was real climbing. Gear climbing at obscure crags was real climbing. It is and it isn't. Eventually, I started to not really care about any of it. I unabashedly do all these things now. I embrace doing gumby shit. It is good for a laugh. My favorite days climbing are not necessarily filled with the most sends for me and my cohorts, it is filled with laughter.
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krampus
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Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:31 am

Post by krampus »

bcombs wrote: I wonder what Paxti's onsight ability is outside.
I could care less until he tries, then I might say "damn", but more likely I won't hear about it cus I'll be climbing outside myself.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
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krampus
Posts: 3933
Joined: Tue Dec 26, 2006 9:31 am

Post by krampus »

JR wrote:I used to be very shy about stick clips, talking about gym climbing, clipping bolts, matching draws and low end climbing shoes.
I know all about low end climbing shoes, my brand new mad rock are doing just fine. Its a poor workman who blames his tools anyway.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
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