New to bolting
New to bolting
I was wanting to get some advice from all you experts on bolting. Tips, tricks, stuff to look for, stuff to avoid, anything that was learned by experience rather than reading forums or from a book. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Re: New to bolting
Heh, does anyone else find this kinda funny?waddle77 wrote: anything that was learned by experience rather than reading forums or from a book.
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
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DriskellHR
- Posts: 1260
- Joined: Thu Dec 20, 2007 11:34 pm
I actually think this is funny too... Considering I am new to bolting and instead of looking at forums I make my own... Yes it is funny. However, I don't plan on doing anything serious. Just practice stuff close to home. Maybe just some anchors for a top rope. Just looking for advice really. Thanks guys.
This would still fall into the "read in a forum" column. A little funny.
A suggestion that you might not find in other forums:
Punch your weight.
What does this mean? It means bolt something at your level. If you have climbed a ton of 5.10a's and you are comfortable at this level. You would know what to expect, so it stands to reason that your vision for new lines would draw you to something similar. If your first foray into bolting is way below your limit you might feel compelled to skimp on the bolts or if it is way over your limit you may not even figure out where the climbing is headed.
Question. Have you ever been on a climb that wasn't bolted well?
A suggestion that you might not find in other forums:
Punch your weight.
What does this mean? It means bolt something at your level. If you have climbed a ton of 5.10a's and you are comfortable at this level. You would know what to expect, so it stands to reason that your vision for new lines would draw you to something similar. If your first foray into bolting is way below your limit you might feel compelled to skimp on the bolts or if it is way over your limit you may not even figure out where the climbing is headed.
Question. Have you ever been on a climb that wasn't bolted well?
I have been on very few routes that weren't bolted well, especially at the red. Most that I have been on (which from the spray list isn't a whole lot) have been really well bolted. So for starters bolt around my limit? Good advice considering I probably would not have done that. Thanks!
I have been to Obed and been on a few awkward lines. Would that fall in to the category of "not well bolted"?
I have been to Obed and been on a few awkward lines. Would that fall in to the category of "not well bolted"?
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Ascentionist
- Posts: 1081
- Joined: Mon Mar 07, 2005 9:23 pm
Wait. What?Ascentionist wrote:Good sport route = NOT awkward
Some of the coolest lines I have done are when there is an awkward move that you have to really learn the body english / tension to do properly. It's fun figuring that stuff out.
Maybe you meant awkward as in "Man it's awkward I have to traverse 10 feet in order to stay on the good holds".
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Clevis Hitch
- Posts: 1461
- Joined: Mon Oct 12, 2009 5:10 pm
Well, as an experienced bolter I can give you some good advice.
So Here Goes.
If you are bolting for any other reason than selfish reasons.
Don"t.
Putting drill to rock is one of the most controversial things that a climber can do. Par example Bacher/Yurian... The Compressor Route, All of Spain. The Bolt wars of Colorado. Ectera, ad nauseum.
When I first started bolting, silly me, I did it so that I and my friends could mob on a project until it went down. That happened and much more. The local "established" bolters attacked in force when they heard that I was bolting projects. They questioned everything about me, from the purity of my motives to the veracity of my sanity. Malicious rumors abound. To this day I catch "it" for having the audacity to bolt a route.
Now I just mostly climb traditional and occasionally put in a set of top anchors.
If you are set on bolting though, Use quality gear that is rated more than adequate for the rock you are bolting in. Learn how to use a drill. Learn where to drill. Learn how to do the math to prevent ground fall. Thats one of the things that has not been taken into consideration on a lot of routes.
On limestone you can use 3"X3/8 wedge anchors and they are adequate, 5"X 1/2 are better. on desert sandstone use 5" or longer, five piece, "POWERS" bolts. Galvanized is good, stainless is better. In the Red River Gorge. Use 5 piece "POWERS" bolts 5 inches or longer. I believe galvanized is acceptable but stainless is better.
You'll catch nothing but shit for bolting...thats gauranteed. Good luck!
So Here Goes.
If you are bolting for any other reason than selfish reasons.
Don"t.
Putting drill to rock is one of the most controversial things that a climber can do. Par example Bacher/Yurian... The Compressor Route, All of Spain. The Bolt wars of Colorado. Ectera, ad nauseum.
When I first started bolting, silly me, I did it so that I and my friends could mob on a project until it went down. That happened and much more. The local "established" bolters attacked in force when they heard that I was bolting projects. They questioned everything about me, from the purity of my motives to the veracity of my sanity. Malicious rumors abound. To this day I catch "it" for having the audacity to bolt a route.
Now I just mostly climb traditional and occasionally put in a set of top anchors.
If you are set on bolting though, Use quality gear that is rated more than adequate for the rock you are bolting in. Learn how to use a drill. Learn where to drill. Learn how to do the math to prevent ground fall. Thats one of the things that has not been taken into consideration on a lot of routes.
On limestone you can use 3"X3/8 wedge anchors and they are adequate, 5"X 1/2 are better. on desert sandstone use 5" or longer, five piece, "POWERS" bolts. Galvanized is good, stainless is better. In the Red River Gorge. Use 5 piece "POWERS" bolts 5 inches or longer. I believe galvanized is acceptable but stainless is better.
You'll catch nothing but shit for bolting...thats gauranteed. Good luck!