Twinkie & Ro questions?

Post by **Redpoint** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:52 pm

camhead wrote:If you have a longish stick clip, you can pre-hang the hard third draw on Ro.

Honestly, if you want a good full-value jughaul project, get on Return of Chris Snyder. Not as hard as Twinkie, and will give you WAY more bang for your buck than Ro.

You know I have only heard great things about Return of Chris Snyder, and now that I know it's a jug haul(and it looks plenty overhung in the pic) this sounds like the direction I'm going to go, thanks a million. I'll let you know how it goes.

A while back I wanted to project Fuzzy Undercling, but I hate the approach at Military, and the crappy old bolts. I just hope they are at least 3/8inch by 3 1/2inches over there.

Well I am satisfied with this threads results, thanks again for your help everyone.

Post by **SCIN** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 2:55 pm

Redpoint wrote:I hate the approach at Military, and the crappy old bolts. I just hope they are at least 3/8inch by 3 1/2inches over there.

Did you really mean these two sentences or was it a joke?

Post by **Redpoint** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 3:01 pm

caribe wrote:
Redpoint wrote:Well the reason I am going strait to 12's is because I thought about projecting an overhung 11, but then I realized the only ones I could think of were nothing but crimps.
Go to Shady Grove for overhung 11's, but go to the playground first for the 10's. I think your unorthodox approach to the grades is not developmental.

All I know is that I want to climb something really overhung and with some jugs to shake on. I never have too much fun climbing the overhung non-stop crimp routes at my gym. I would have much more fun on an endurance route I can start ticking every move on and getting faster and faster at climbing it until I get the send.

I have a problem with PMRP though: my car only has a couple inches of clearance, and it's stopping me from visiting PMRP as much as I would like to, that and most of my climbing partners don't have a car they will take in there either.

Hopefully after the property is paid off they will start using the donations for a better road, that would be sweet.

Post by **Redpoint** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 3:07 pm

SCIN wrote:
Redpoint wrote:I hate the approach at Military, and the crappy old bolts. I just hope they are at least 3/8inch by 3 1/2inches over there.
Did you really mean these two sentences or was it a joke?

I'm a hiker and I hate climbing up that hill. Even the hardcore hiker who wrote Hinterlands and that official trails book hates the hike to Military. As far as the bolts are concerned, the only ones I have seen are the ones on Sunshine and Moonbeam, and almost all of them were spinners, it was a sad sight. I think the bolt heads look smaller there than what I have seen at Muir and PMRP. Didn't those two places start using a new standard of something bigger around and like 4 1/4 inches long, that wasn't used around the rest of the gorge?

Post by **Crankmas** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 3:18 pm

you might feel a little pressure

Post by **tutugirl** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 3:31 pm

Go to "de Bibliothek" 11s as far as the eye can see....with great jugs

The Short Happy Life of Francis Macomber 5.10b ** (S) de Bibliothek Wall 45 2007
100 Years of Solitude 5.11a **** (S) de Bibliothek Wall 55 2007
American Psycho 5.11a ** (S) de Bibliothek Wall 2008
Who Pooped in the Park? 5.11a **** (S) de Bibliothek Wall 55 2009
Tea at the Palaz of Hoon 5.11b *** (S) de Bibliothek Wall 60 2009
No Country for Old Men 5.11b *** (S) de Bibliothek Wall 65 2008
A Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man 5.11b *** (S) de Bibliothek Wall 2008
Resuscitation of a Hanged Man 5.11b *** (S) de Bibliothek Wall 65 2008
A Confederacy of Dunces 5.11c ** (S) de Bibliothek Wall 70 2008
The Love Song of J. Alfred Prufrock 5.11c *** (S) de Bibliothek Wall 65 2008
The Sound 5.11c * (S) de Bibliothek Wall 65 2008
The Fury 5.11c *** (S) de Bibliothek Wall 70 2008
The Unbearable Lightness of Being 5.11c **** (S) de Bibliothek Wall 70 2007
All The Pretty Horses 5.11c *** (S) de Bibliothek Wall 70 2007
Everything That Rises Must Converge 5.11d **** (S) de Bibliothek Wall Pockets 60 2009
East of Eden 5.11d *** (S) de Bibliothek Wall 40 2008
Lolita 5.12a *** (S) de Bibliothek Wall Bouldery 40 2008
The Stranger 5.12a ** (S)

Post by **Redpoint** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 3:35 pm

Well that's news to me, when I walked past there I saw plenty of jugs at the starts, but I assumed the middle and tops of the routes were nothing but crimps, because I have heard about holds always breaking there. Now that I think about it, I would suspect most of the holds that are breaking are footchips anyhow.

Post by **gripster** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 3:35 pm

You probably need to get more endurance before you start working some of these harder routes (from looking at your spray list). You should work Monkey bars over and over again. It is rated 10a and is probably one of the steepest and juggiest 10's in the Red, and would make a great primer/training climb for any of the aforementioned routes.

Post by **caribe** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 3:36 pm

Redpoint wrote:Well that's news to me, when I walked past there I saw plenty of jugs at the starts.

You can search the online guide by grade . . . I am just saying . . .

Post by **Redpoint** » Fri Oct 30, 2009 3:44 pm

gripster wrote:You probably need to get more endurance before you start working some of these harder routes (from looking at your spray list). You should work Monkey bars over and over again. It is rated 10a and is probably one of the steepest and juggiest 10's in the Red, and would make a great primer/training climb for any of the aforementioned routes.

That is what I am doing now at the bouldering gym, they have a flat roof there. I am also training on my boulder tree:

Almost everyday I boulder around this tree doing laps. It sounds retarded I know, but the way you boulder around this tree is by keeping your legs up high on the same branches that your arms are using, so basically the angle is the same as a perfectly flat roof. There is a couple moves you really have to commit on, and there is even one move you have to throw a left heal-hook on.

That has been going great, a couple months ago doing one lap kicked my butt, and now I can do more than 3 without a problem. I think each lap is about 10 moves.