Twinkie & Ro questions?
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cliftongifford
- Posts: 649
- Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 11:57 am
I agree w/ saxman... 10b to 12a is a huge leap. but given the choice you should do twinkie just because it always has draws pre-hung. the slab part on twinkie isn't very hard, maybe 10c/d, the overhung part is where I'm usually spit off, between the 8th and 9th bolt... the fall is fun. I suck though.
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JeffCastro
- Posts: 84
- Joined: Tue Jan 31, 2006 4:30 am
Twinkie doesn't always have draws, at least I had to hang my own when I did it. Slab move is 11ish probably and there is a kinda move about halfway up the steep part, right before the rest.
Personally, I am not much of a fan of Ro - just don't think it is that great of a route, and not as good as a whole lot of other 11d/12a's. If you want a proj at roadside, you should pick stay the hand instead.
Personally, I am not much of a fan of Ro - just don't think it is that great of a route, and not as good as a whole lot of other 11d/12a's. If you want a proj at roadside, you should pick stay the hand instead.
"There is no secret ingredient"
Po, the kung fu panda
Po, the kung fu panda
Wow, thanks for your help everyone.
Well the reason I am going strait to 12's is because I thought about projecting an overhung 11, but then I realized the only ones I could think of were nothing but crimps, and I would rather climb one of the reds famous jug hauls. From what I understand both of these routes don't have any 12 moves on them anyhow, and so I'm sure I can handle it.
I climb hard in the gym, one 11 I projected and sent was also projected by a really good climber, and it even took him a few days to get it, and I only ever saw one other person send it(but I'm sure more than a few people had already sent it). As soon as it started it was a really pumpy crimpy boulder problem where you are really leaning this way and that, then you have to make this huge move on a really shallow crimp out to this honeycomb hold. Getting on top of that thing was like pulling a roof since the hold was so big and stuck out so far. Right after you do that is when the route gets really overhung, and the very next move you had to make was on this pig pinch, but at least I eventually found a way so that I didn't have to match on that thing anymore. After that you had to make these huge shouldery boulder moves back to back to back, and the holds just got worse and worse until finally you get to this ridiculous crux. No matter how many times I did that crux I always sucked at it, until one day I invented a new way to do it. Instead of making the reachy move and walking my feet up the bare wall, I walked my feet way up to some foot chips, took a tiny shake rest since my feet were just good enough that I wouldn't barn-door, then I made the reachy move, and if it wasn't for that I would have never got the send. Compared to the 11B I used to climb there, this route felt so much harder, and took so much more endurance that it might as well of been rated 12A. I doubt rating it that wouldn't have been any more ridiculous as the 12A rating on Ro.
So can anyone recommend any 11C - 12A jug hauls? I now wish I had some more options then just these two.
EDIT: I'll check out Stay the Hand, thanks for the recommendation.
Well the reason I am going strait to 12's is because I thought about projecting an overhung 11, but then I realized the only ones I could think of were nothing but crimps, and I would rather climb one of the reds famous jug hauls. From what I understand both of these routes don't have any 12 moves on them anyhow, and so I'm sure I can handle it.
I climb hard in the gym, one 11 I projected and sent was also projected by a really good climber, and it even took him a few days to get it, and I only ever saw one other person send it(but I'm sure more than a few people had already sent it). As soon as it started it was a really pumpy crimpy boulder problem where you are really leaning this way and that, then you have to make this huge move on a really shallow crimp out to this honeycomb hold. Getting on top of that thing was like pulling a roof since the hold was so big and stuck out so far. Right after you do that is when the route gets really overhung, and the very next move you had to make was on this pig pinch, but at least I eventually found a way so that I didn't have to match on that thing anymore. After that you had to make these huge shouldery boulder moves back to back to back, and the holds just got worse and worse until finally you get to this ridiculous crux. No matter how many times I did that crux I always sucked at it, until one day I invented a new way to do it. Instead of making the reachy move and walking my feet up the bare wall, I walked my feet way up to some foot chips, took a tiny shake rest since my feet were just good enough that I wouldn't barn-door, then I made the reachy move, and if it wasn't for that I would have never got the send. Compared to the 11B I used to climb there, this route felt so much harder, and took so much more endurance that it might as well of been rated 12A. I doubt rating it that wouldn't have been any more ridiculous as the 12A rating on Ro.
So can anyone recommend any 11C - 12A jug hauls? I now wish I had some more options then just these two.
EDIT: I'll check out Stay the Hand, thanks for the recommendation.
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut
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Don McGlone
- Posts: 567
- Joined: Thu Nov 14, 2002 11:16 pm
When I was at Phantasia last Wed Twinkie had prehung draws on it. I figured they weren't in perfect shape, and I heard some Germans even swapped out a draw on it. I have a couple extra wiregates laying around, so if any of the rope side biners have sharp edges on them I'd be willing to donate a little.JeffCastro wrote:Being the safety freak that you seem to be, you will not be happy with the state of the pre-hung draws on twinkie.
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut
That picture in the guidebook of Girls Gone Wild is probably my favorite climbing photo. Finally a great closeup pic of someone climbing who isn't a muscley man, and the blood on her leg really added to the Girls Gone Wild theme.Don McGlone wrote:Hey Redpoint, check out Crucify Me @ Shady Grove. Steep, clean falls, well bolted. Girls Gone Wild is right next to it for a warmup.
Crucify Me sounds like something I'd like to try, thanks for telling me about it.
"It is difficult to estimate the potential damage of solvents; therefore the middle of the rope should never be marked with a felt-tip pen or similar. Although a danger might be improbable, it should never be ignored." Mammut
Go to Shady Grove for overhung 11's, but go to the playground first for the 10's. I think your unorthodox approach to the grades is not developmental.Redpoint wrote:Well the reason I am going strait to 12's is because I thought about projecting an overhung 11, but then I realized the only ones I could think of were nothing but crimps.