Time flies....
If you just want a nice close look at the overhang, traverse over from Cavers'. You'll be passing right under Insanity Ceiling then under the big flake that marks the roof pitch of Tower of Power. Go up diagonally right to the top. It's an airy 5.easy traverse with nice scenery, and a secret alternate finish to Cavers'.
sweet thanks day, let me get this straight too. You can stay in the off width to complete "the corner" or, pull the roof and head right on the face for tower of power. From the ground, the roof looked more like a bulge compared to insanity ceiling, but at about the same height?L K Day wrote:If you just want a nice close look at the overhang, traverse over from Cavers'. You'll be passing right under Insanity Ceiling then under the big flake that marks the roof pitch of Tower of Power. Go up diagonally right to the top. It's an airy 5.easy traverse with nice scenery, and a secret alternate finish to Cavers'.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
Krampus, "The Corner" - or pitch one of Tower of Power climbs the crack that starts off wide and tapers to hands from the ground to the ledge. When Greg Smith did this pitch he avoided the roof and escaped to the top by scrambling up easy terrain on the right. This last bit is the finish for the scenic traverse I described above. To complete Tower of Power, surmount the roof, and yes it's a real roof, via the obvious detached flake, then climb the solid face above.
On the first, and on one subsequent ascent, I protected the roof by "lassoing" the big flake with some tied together runners then anchored this runner with a chain of pieces back to the wall. Clip a long runner to the lasso and you're ready to go. On the other hand, you might figure out a much better way to protect this strange piece of architecture. From the left side of the flake hand traverse out to the point where you can swing a leg over the flake and haul your ass up on to the thing. You'll end up sitting astride the flake, leaning way back, with the roof right in your face. In the days before we knew anything about "core strength" it made me wish I had some. From here reach way out to a good hold at the lip of the roof. Stand up on the flake and you'll be able to reach a bomber placement in the crack in the face above. I put in a piece, clipped it, and went back to the flake for a brief rest. After a breather, just grab the lip, stand up on the flake and go. The moves above are 5.10ish. When I did it the first two times I ran out the face above (20 ft.?). O Dub top roped it and said it looked like it would protect easily. Oh well, I always though I was pretty good at finding placements. He also said he pulled off tons of loose stuff both immediately above and below the flake
and then found solid rock on the face above. I can't imagine why you'd feel the need to pull off shit from below the flake (after all it's below you when you start the pitch). As for the stuff above the flake, I think he was talking about the thin scale of creaky flakes that covered the underside of the roof. Yeah, I saw the stuff, It's right in one's face, but I couldn't see any advantage in peeling it off, so I just left it there. But I guess it's kind of cleaned up now. Anyway, have fun, and be careful. I'm not kidding when I say it was one of the most fun pitches I ever did in the gorge.
On the first, and on one subsequent ascent, I protected the roof by "lassoing" the big flake with some tied together runners then anchored this runner with a chain of pieces back to the wall. Clip a long runner to the lasso and you're ready to go. On the other hand, you might figure out a much better way to protect this strange piece of architecture. From the left side of the flake hand traverse out to the point where you can swing a leg over the flake and haul your ass up on to the thing. You'll end up sitting astride the flake, leaning way back, with the roof right in your face. In the days before we knew anything about "core strength" it made me wish I had some. From here reach way out to a good hold at the lip of the roof. Stand up on the flake and you'll be able to reach a bomber placement in the crack in the face above. I put in a piece, clipped it, and went back to the flake for a brief rest. After a breather, just grab the lip, stand up on the flake and go. The moves above are 5.10ish. When I did it the first two times I ran out the face above (20 ft.?). O Dub top roped it and said it looked like it would protect easily. Oh well, I always though I was pretty good at finding placements. He also said he pulled off tons of loose stuff both immediately above and below the flake
and then found solid rock on the face above. I can't imagine why you'd feel the need to pull off shit from below the flake (after all it's below you when you start the pitch). As for the stuff above the flake, I think he was talking about the thin scale of creaky flakes that covered the underside of the roof. Yeah, I saw the stuff, It's right in one's face, but I couldn't see any advantage in peeling it off, so I just left it there. But I guess it's kind of cleaned up now. Anyway, have fun, and be careful. I'm not kidding when I say it was one of the most fun pitches I ever did in the gorge.Maybe you just were not clever enoughL K Day wrote: O Dub top roped it and said it looked like it would protect easily. Oh well, I always though I was pretty good at finding placements.
oh waitL K Day wrote: On the first, and on one subsequent ascent, I protected the roof by "lassoing" the big flake with some tied together runners then anchored this runner with a chain of pieces back to the wall. Clip a long runner to the lasso and you're ready to go.
I can't wait, the first pitch looks really cool and we were obviously not looking at the second from the ground. I love this stuff
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared