Spraylord Wanted

Post by **SCIN** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 1:35 am

camhead wrote: And I've about run out of reasons to cajole my wife up to Pebble Beach, too.

Join the crowd on that one man. The fact that the line is wet more than it's dry combined with the hella hike and drive adds to the rarity of ascents of that thing. Stick with it though. I'm sure that the difficulty of finding it in a dry state and doing the hike over and over will make the send that much more rewarding.

Post by **camhead** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 11:45 am

Yeah, the hike is actually not too bad in my view, and I was definitely not expecting the crack's wetness to be a factor yesterday. It was not soaked, but the morning dew made it just slippery enough...

One major objective obstacle to WTOK is that there is not a lot of stuff to really attract other climbers up to Pebble Beach (i.e. no fun jughauls!). It's got a lot of really good moderates (which my wife is pretty sick of by this point), and that's about it. I'm trying to keep her psyched on Straightedge and the Seam, hopefully that will be good for a few more trips.

Oh, and sorry for bringing trad into the sport forum, but WTOK is basically a sport climb anyway, so...

Post by **krampus** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 12:49 pm

camhead wrote:Oh, and sorry for bringing trad into the sport forum, but WTOK is basically a sport climb anyway, so...

I suppose, since it does happen to be the hardest gear rout in Kentucky, we can let it slide. Good luck man, that thing looks wicked. If you run out of willing belays hit me up.

Post by **bcombs** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 1:46 am

Great weather today. I made a little progress.

From the ground, fell heading to the 5th. Hung at the 5th and then the 6th, then ran it to the top from the 6th.

It felt impossible the first time. Improbable last trip. Possible today.

Another sizable hold broke around the 6th (not by me). It doesn't change anything it was a foot and there are plenty around.

Post by **SCIN** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 1:58 am

Unwillingly have a mini-project. Decided to beta-test the semi-new "Easy Rider" at Drive-By last weekend. Fell up high 2nd go and thought I'd to it soon. Put 2 goes into it yesterday both times falling at the literal last move. Got back on it today twice and fell at the literal last move again. 100 feet of tough climbing capped by a throw to a slot right at the chains. I think I messed up trying it 2 days in a row. That never works for me for hard routes. At least I'm getting some training in.

The route is cool. Still a little breaky and sandy but should clean up to be a pretty decent route. It's cool looking down on the chains of Kaleidoscope and still having 3 bolts to go.

Post by **SCIN** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 2:39 am

I love my penis!!!!!!

Post by **pigsteak** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 2:59 am

SCIN wrote:Unwillingly have a mini-project. Decided to beta-test the semi-new "Easy Rider" at Drive-By last weekend. Fell up high 2nd go and thought I'd to it soon. Put 2 goes into it yesterday both times falling at the literal last move. Got back on it today twice and fell at the literal last move again. 100 feet of tough climbing capped by a throw to a slot right at the chains. I think I messed up trying it 2 days in a row. That never works for me for hard routes. At least I'm getting some training in.

The route is cool. Still a little breaky and sandy but should clean up to be a pretty decent route. It's cool looking down on the chains of Kaleidoscope and still having 3 bolts to go.

pawilkes, did he send? just needs to hit the chains instead of the slot I think.

Post by **pawilkes** » Fri Oct 23, 2009 10:19 am

nope, he fell on the last move. gotta do all the moves.