Spraylord Wanted

Post by **rjackson** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 7:09 pm

Ahhhh, Rock Wars... what a cool line for the gorge.

Post by **krampus** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 7:56 pm

wrong thread tania. This is for those sport pansies. But you should be able to crush rock wars anyway.

Post by **mike_anderson** » Mon Oct 19, 2009 10:22 pm

Didn't climb Saturday because camping with the kids in below freezing temps isn't that fun. Sunday was awesome...perfect conditions! First go on Dracula I made it to my previous high point, but got a little cold and pumped. Second go, I cruised past my highpoint to the good rest at the last bolt...shook out for about 5 minutes then launched up into the runout finish. I stuck the dyno to the slopey arete-pinch hold, really pumped, did the next move barely, then the next move barely, then I flew off. I could have licked the chains, I was that close...basically two moves from the top. Third go was similar, but I fell off the arete hold.

I made great progress and had an awesome day. The runout at the top is feeling more reasonable, and the opening boulder problem is getting really easy. Best of all, my friend Shawn sent Hellraiser in one day of work, and it's his hardest send to date...Nice job Shawn!! Hopefully I'll get back Wed or Thurs and send that rig! Keep cranking everyone!

Post by **pigsteak** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 1:30 am

mike, pawilkes says if you can kiss the chains, it's a send. count it and move on!

right pawilkes?

Post by **Saxman** » Tue Oct 20, 2009 1:10 pm

Yeah, just imagine the chains are a bell in a gym or a speed comp.

Post by **mike_anderson** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 12:40 am

Yeah, to each his own. It feels to me like the route should end on the big ledge above the chains, so that's where I'm going.

Post by **pigsteak** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 12:57 am

now that's the spirit! good luck Mike!

Post by **pawilkes** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 1:03 am

pigsteak wrote:mike, pawilkes says if you can kiss the chains, it's a send. count it and move on!

right pawilkes?

i guess, i mean to each their own. depends on the route/situation. generally I go with a "one and done" philosophy unless some weaksauce partner gets me one some mixed pile because he's to scared to finish it and then i whip at the chains while hanging the draw. i mean, had there been a draw on it I'd totally have clipped it, it was a victory whip

Post by **pawilkes** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 1:06 am

on a separate note, props to Bram today for having an awesome day climbing three routes at his limit, all on the first go of the day and one of them an onsight. Art did damn good too with a couple of upper limit sends

Post by **camhead** » Wed Oct 21, 2009 1:26 am

mike_anderson wrote:Didn't climb Saturday because camping with the kids in below freezing temps isn't that fun. Sunday was awesome...perfect conditions! First go on Dracula I made it to my previous high point, but got a little cold and pumped. Second go, I cruised past my highpoint to the good rest at the last bolt...shook out for about 5 minutes then launched up into the runout finish. I stuck the dyno to the slopey arete-pinch hold, really pumped, did the next move barely, then the next move barely, then I flew off. I could have licked the chains, I was that close...basically two moves from the top. Third go was similar, but I fell off the arete hold.

I made great progress and had an awesome day. The runout at the top is feeling more reasonable, and the opening boulder problem is getting really easy. Best of all, my friend Shawn sent Hellraiser in one day of work, and it's his hardest send to date...Nice job Shawn!! Hopefully I'll get back Wed or Thurs and send that rig! Keep cranking everyone!

Nice work, Mike. Those moves on Dracula are HARD!

We actually busted down for a day from Columbus today, since the weather was looking so good. Got on the proj (ok, it's Welcome to Ole Kentuck), and it did not go to well. A couple weeks ago I one-hung it, and the crux for me felt really easy. Today, the crack was just a tiny bit wet inside, and it felt like my fingers were a millimeter narrower than they were the previous attempt (not enough sodium? too much ibuprofin?). I had left a big helping of fail sauce all over the route... booo. And I've about run out of reasons to cajole my wife up to Pebble Beach, too.