Spraylord Wanted
Very cool rout. Definitely puts your head game to the test. Basically a 5.11 sport roof, but with a LOT of exposure and no nice person to place a bolt just over the roof within your comfort zone, just some right winged crazy guy with an afro from the 70's telling you its fun. But he sure aint lying. Can't wait to try some more of those lines.pkananen wrote:I want to hear a report on Insanity Ceiling.
How you compare may not be as important as to whom you are compared
haha! LOVE modern times!!! right up next to bambi meets godzilla at josh for the hardest 5.8 evAR! had a gf decide to take a whip on it cause she was scared of all the traversing, welp an hour later she successfully learned how to a) tie bachman's and b) prusik with them, all from me yelling blind from the top of the cliff, couldn't hear her worth a damn from the wind and the fact that i was on top and she was under a 40ft roof. goodtimes! (pun intended, wooo 8+!)
i just moved down to louisville from western mass september 1. the rain has put a damper on things, but i've only missed one of 7 weekends so far (we we're boozing hard at a friend's party). with the rain though 3 of those weekends were 1 day'ers
my buddy aka absolutsugarsmurf has started me off right:
my send list to date (warning massive spray):
cruising lane - on-site
headstone surfer - on-site
up swift creek without a paddle - on-site
right of passage - red-point after a TR weeks before
underling - on-site
doppler effect - on-site, plus a 2nd lap the next week, cause it's so damn good
king me - 2 go's - i know, i know, spurt climbage, sorry
synchronicity - have had 2 go's, first time - one hang, 2nd time - one fall, same spot, forgot hand beta, it'll go next time i'm on it
rock wars - amnesia on-site, did it 3 years ago
autumn - ditto
return of geoff beene - on-site!!
have also had TR laps on no return and andromeda strain, just need to go back and lead 'em
i got my eyes on:
insanity ceiling
rebar
B3
goodstone
goodtimes
MAYBE - inhibitor
wide pride!
beene cracks, in general
perforator
crack attack
jim's dihedral
smoothy nut
edit to add: mantle route and hard left
will fully take suggestions for breaking into the 11a grade, my forte is roofs and fingers.
i just moved down to louisville from western mass september 1. the rain has put a damper on things, but i've only missed one of 7 weekends so far (we we're boozing hard at a friend's party). with the rain though 3 of those weekends were 1 day'ers
my buddy aka absolutsugarsmurf has started me off right:
my send list to date (warning massive spray):
cruising lane - on-site
headstone surfer - on-site
up swift creek without a paddle - on-site
right of passage - red-point after a TR weeks before
underling - on-site
doppler effect - on-site, plus a 2nd lap the next week, cause it's so damn good
king me - 2 go's - i know, i know, spurt climbage, sorry
synchronicity - have had 2 go's, first time - one hang, 2nd time - one fall, same spot, forgot hand beta, it'll go next time i'm on it
rock wars - amnesia on-site, did it 3 years ago
autumn - ditto
return of geoff beene - on-site!!
have also had TR laps on no return and andromeda strain, just need to go back and lead 'em
i got my eyes on:
insanity ceiling
rebar
B3
goodstone
goodtimes
MAYBE - inhibitor
wide pride!
beene cracks, in general
perforator
crack attack
jim's dihedral
smoothy nut
edit to add: mantle route and hard left
will fully take suggestions for breaking into the 11a grade, my forte is roofs and fingers.