Spraylord Wanted

Post by **Andrew** » Sun Oct 11, 2009 10:43 pm

good for you. I usually tackle a soft gimmick route first.

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:47 am

added two moves to my high point. after a rotten session on saturday out there, i claim victory for today. it is amazing how focused in we can get when we are trying to climb at our max. every hold dissected, every move deciphered, every crux rehearsed during the week...hope everyone is enjoying the game as much as I.

Post by JR » Mon Oct 12, 2009 1:11 am

Nice Pigsteak. Is that the Choco Fact Proj? Those look cool.

Nice SCIN. Get focused, you can send it this season.

Post by **pigsteak** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 1:54 am

yeah, to the right of wobbler about 40 feet. two routes share the first 4 bolts, and then they split.

Post by **davyanderson** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 3:03 am

Thanks for getting this thread started pigsteak. It's good to realize that other people have to work to meet their goals as well!

Here's some more mortal spray for the other humans out there...

I'm going to send a 10c by Thanksgiving. I think this is a decent goal, considering I had my first 10a redpoint last weekend. Since then I've flashed a few more 10a's and my first 10b (Getting Lucky in Kentucky), all in Muir. I'm thinking of Workin' for the Weekend for the 10c, which I've worked on toprope, only hangdogging twice.

After that, I'd like to break out of the Muir Valley Safety Zone and send as many 10's as possible in other areas, especially To Defy and Kentucky Pinstripe.

If I get all that done, then I'll start working towards 5.11 in the spring.

Post by **ahab** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:15 pm

we went to mt. olive rock yeasterday to escape the crowds. worked out pretty well.

warmed up on the 10a, a cool route.
then, we hopped on the 10c crack next to it called 'sprout's climb'. after almost dislocating my shoulder wallowing onto the ledge midway up, i somehow pulled the roof and the onsight out my ass.

then it was over to 'south side of the sky'. i had tried it before and it had been ugly. i started up and it was essentially a repeat of the previous flailing. to add insult to injury, i hopped on the TR to see if i could even pull the moves w/o placing gear...and it went clean. i think that pissed me off more than flailing up it on lead. i think once i figure out a couple placements in the middle, it will go.

anyone want to go to a trashed, roadside chosspile next weekend?

Post by **krampus** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 12:53 pm

ahab wrote: then it was over to 'south side of the sky'. i had tried it before and it had been ugly. i started up and it was essentially a repeat of the previous flailing. to add insult to injury, i hopped on the TR to see if i could even pull the moves w/o placing gear...and it went clean. i think that pissed me off more than flailing up it on lead. i think once i figure out a couple placements in the middle, it will go.

ouch, hate when that happens, its like chasing the rabbit in texas hold'em, you are better off not knowing.

Post by **ahab** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:36 pm

werd. better to just count the chips you have and wait for pocket QQ's.

you should see this line. better yet, you should climb it. it is worthy.

Post by **gripster** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:50 pm

davyanderson wrote:I'm going to send a 10c by Thanksgiving.

Diamond in the Rough, one of the best 5.10's in the red.

Post by **krampus** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 2:56 pm

ahab wrote:werd. better to just count the chips you have and wait for pocket QQ's.

you should see this line. better yet, you should climb it. it is worthy.

I wish I caught up with you yesterday, oh well. Still, we got our October to do list and time is movin fast