camhead wrote:
Naw, Dogleg is like 11a if you're short. You can do hand-foot matches in those horizontals, bring your hips in, and statically reach for the next hold. Way casual. You should totally get on it.
.11a-- That would make it even easier than Amarillo! Piece of cake. But why do I want to throw rocks at you?
I got on my proj saturday morning, and I know it is at my limit, because the air felt 100% wet and the slopers unmanageable. instead of losing skin, I chose to bail...and then the sun came out. gonna try it again sunday.
Ah, I sent my project today!
First go, feeling good, strong, and on. Foothold breaks.
Second go, nailed it.
Tough onsight. 11c possibly b with moves wired.
"October Sky"
Now I have nothing to obsess over.
Linked up a large section of my project this afternoon after almost giving up on it because I sucked on it earlier in the day. Turns out it was just the humidity early on which broke later in the day so I'm glad I got back on it.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!
I think I'm going to project Resurrection as a first 12c. I doubt too many would say it is soft for the grade.
On Friday a hold broke above the 2nd. Saturday I learned the new Buster beta, which is a burly throw to a hold out left, and Artsay's heel hook beta (thanks!). I don't know which one will suit me better.
This route will take a new level of fitness that I don't currently have. After a pretty tough boulder problem down low, you have a few bolts of decently pumpy sequential climbing. The last two bolts worth is standard Undertow crimping.
