Spraylord Wanted

Post by **anticlmber** » Wed Oct 07, 2009 9:23 pm

i want to do all of the little piggies 11d's.

Post by **Brentucky** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 12:15 am

pigsteak wrote:after this weekend, I expect some updates. keep us motivated folks. anyone out there have goals a bit more "normal"? anyone looking to lead their first trad line or redpoint their first 11a? what are you doing to get there?

alright, i'm gonna call myself out on here. IF i can talk my partners into roadside tomorrow afternoon and it's not a huge crowd or something i'm gonna try to put ro shampo to rest. yes i know it's an f'ing jug haul, an easy 12a or not one at all, blah blah blah, but that is EXACTLY why it's gonna be one of my firsts. it's still a pumpy-ass climb for the likes of me, and i will be psyched if i get it!

Post by **tania** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 3:34 am

I made a goal a few weeks ago for this coming season: weather permitting, every week
- try and/or send a new sport route 5.10 or above &
- try and/or send a new trad route 5.6 or above!!

Post by **lena_chita** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 6:37 pm

camhead wrote:I'm not sure that I want to spray about my current "project," since I am a terrible project climber, and it seems like every time I get close on something at the Red, the weather and/or weakness steps in and shuts me down.

I will say that this past weekend, the crux felt MUCH easier than it did last year, even though I did not have the sequence up to the crux as dialed as I used to.

I think I know which one it is! And I hope you send it soon, but not before I get a chance to project the climb next to it... because once you send, I don't think I'll get anyone to go there with.

Projects:

Chris Snyder (hopefully not a long project... it was one-hanged. But I can't figure out a short-person way of pulling the roof yet.)
Supafly (also one-hang at this point, no harder than Chris Snyder)
Ale8 (ugh... bolt-to-bolt debacle. This one will take some endurance, but I should manage it.)
Stain (if I did every move on it, I could send it, right? in my dreams, at least!)
Harvest (yeah, right... I better stop dreaming and start trying)

Post by **mike_anderson** » Thu Oct 08, 2009 8:00 pm

Glad to see you're psyched on the Lode...I have some stuff to do there.

Post by **Brentucky** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 3:24 am

hell yeah bitches!

first attempt today: hang the draws run plan or record, never mind what the hell, let's go for it, pull past the crux get to the holds above the next bolt, WHIP!

2nd attempt, feeling great, resting on most all holds since i realized they are all jugs, shoulda had it, f'd up crux, but still pulled it no problem, clipped next bolt, made move to "arm bar" and somehow MISSED the gigantic ledge jugs, WHIP!

3rd attempt, this bitch is going down. she went down smooth like butta with plenty of energy to spare! i'm totally psyched up now that more shit might be coming soon. that is my personal proudest and most fun f'ing jug haul of an 11c i've sent yet!

Post by **Andrew** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 10:45 am

good job

Post by **mike_anderson** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 12:10 pm

Congratulations!

Post by **pigsteak** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 12:26 pm

excellent brent..way to hang tight and tenacious. here's to more sending this weekend.

Post by **ahab** » Fri Oct 09, 2009 12:34 pm

drinking this early pig? oh well, cheers.

nice work, brent. now you can move on to 9+...