Bolts on Hard Left

Placing a cam? Slotting a nut? Slinging a tree?
jrathfon
Posts: 137
Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 2:39 pm

Bolts on Hard Left

Post by jrathfon »

hey everybody,

my buddy and i checked out hard left for the first time, sunday. looks like a fun sweet line, and seeing the pic in the old bronaugh book, definitely makes it look easier. staring up at the blank face, we were like, what? we have to traverse to that hueco? 30ft left? blank face? are there holds? pro? ya, turns out it's way easy there.

but what skeebed us the most were the bolts. they are right in a drip line from the overhanging roof. bolt 1 is an incredibly rusted 3/8", probably would hold. bolt 2 is a 1/4 incher not visibly rusty on the outside, but is right in a drip and is the same vintage as bolt 3. bolt 3 is a DEATH TRAP! a super rusty (i mean looks like it was pulled out of salt water with lumps on it) 1/4". not that i plan on falling on this route, but it could spell a bad time for another party.

i moved down to louisville last month and have hit the red 5 of 6 weekends, love it. but i'm not in the know on how this stuff works. is there a way to donate and earmark money for this route? are there people out there updating routes? is this in one of the bolt sensitive areas?

any help would be great, i feel this route deserves a 3ish stars, but the rusties and 1/4 inchers detract a lot from it.

thanks,
jeremy
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kato
Posts: 879
Joined: Fri Oct 11, 2002 12:54 pm

Post by kato »

Detracts?? It's reminiscent!
No chalkbag since 1995.
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Jeff
Posts: 2859
Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 6:40 pm

Post by Jeff »

Maybe submit to Teamsuck.
At the same time, a friend and I were talking about replacing the bolts on Hemisphere.
Not sure if we will get to it anytime soon though, but if/when 3 bolts on hard left are no big deal.
Need to do that route again anyway.
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ynot
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Joined: Mon Oct 07, 2002 1:02 am

Post by ynot »

cool route. it deserves some upgrade.
"Everyone should have a plan for the zombie apocolipse" Courtney
jrathfon
Posts: 137
Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 2:39 pm

Post by jrathfon »

i understand the nostalgia, but having fallen onto and sheared two different 1/4" 70's bolts which both resulted in circa 60ft falls, i've learned to distrust them.

so how do i submit this to teamsuck?
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Jeff
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Joined: Thu Sep 26, 2002 6:40 pm

Post by Jeff »

http://teamsuckclimbing.com/

Not that Blake can do EVERYTHING around here.
jrathfon
Posts: 137
Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 2:39 pm

Post by jrathfon »

dun
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