Spraylord Wanted

[tania]

Nevermore, for sure

[camhead]

please share camhead..you can bet many of us won't be sending our projs this fall, but it will be fun to keep up with the thought process, the challenge, pain, euphoria, anguish, elation, etc as you work it.

heh. Ok, twist my arm Kipp. Like Nick, my goal is to break into 13s this season, and the project is WTOK. I'm calling it WTFOK, though.

[ahab]

Nevermore, for sure

better hurry. once this thing starts showing up on pro climber blogs it’ll be a race to climb the best multi pitch, gumby-proof, mixed line this side of the mississippi. I can see it now…hordes of people, marching up to raven rock only to stand in line. patiently waiting, palms sweaty with anticipation, for their turn on the masterpiece that is nevermore.

[rustyvasectomy]

White Man's Overbite. Did every move first try this weekend. Doesn't sound like too much of an accomplishment but earlier in the year it took me about 15 tries each time to do the first boulder problem. I can't wait to start stringing sections together. The hard part is 18 moves for me. That's about as long as the boulder problems I've been training in my gym on. I think I can do it but it will be interesting. I can't even clip any of the draws without grabbing them right now.

as far as i can remember, you clip the draw off the huge jug after the slab, skip the next one and clip the one after that.

then skip all draws until you are on the jug after the boulder problem.

this way you only clip one draw through the whole hard part. i took basically every fall possible as that rig took like 30 tries. the worst one was for sure from the draw you clip in the middle with the one before that skipped. you fall pretty low but its safe i think.

[SCIN]

Man, that's gonna be scary trying to clip the draw just after the first one skipped because clipping from that little gaston crimp thing isn't exactly easy. Good to hear you tested all of the falls though.

[mike_anderson]

I had big plans to work on Nagypapa this fall. I've been filling in a good route pyramid over the last year, and felt like I was ready for a route at that grade. So, I got on it last weekend, and WHOA! I did three burns or so over two days, and did all but one or two moves, but linkage seems to be a lifetime away. I've been on routes before that took me a couple days to figure out all the moves, but they always had a low crux or a decent rest before the crux, but this thing is ridiculous. There is one shitty rest halfway up, then a series of crimps that I can barely hang onto after resting on the draw for 5 minutes. At this point I'd be psyched if I could just redpoint up to the crux, let alone doing it.

Needless to say, I think the route is beyond me at this point. I'm optimistic that those crimps will feel better when it gets colder, but I'm afraid that the temps were not the problem. So my fall season just cleared up, and I'm not sure what to do with it yet. I think I'm going to circle the wagons and work on some easier stuff to get stronger.

I think I'll get on Dracula this weekend....

[SCIN]

Dracula is bad ass. The end of Nagypapa is insane.

[mike_anderson]

Yeah, I was pretty psyched to figure out the opening boulder problem, but the actual crux at the end totally demoralized me. Good luck on WMOB...I've heard it's a total paddle-fest, but I've also hear you're pretty strong.

[bcombs]

The original plan was to be in shape to send the first 12c this season.

http://www.redriverclimbing.com/viewtop ... 72&start=0

I think I'm close. I've done 3 12b's in the last month or so. A couple more b's and maybe in late October early November it will be time to pick the c. Those I climb with the most have suggested Belly of the Beast because its soft in the grade and might suit me.

[rustyvasectomy]

nagypapa is harder than most of the 14s at the red. way harder than gods own stone for instance.