so now I am really confused. sending on preplaced gear is "better style" than leading, placing gear and falling one time? cuz the prevailing wisdom here says preplaced trad gear equals FA and the other does not. gawd, this is confusing.
I honestly thought that trad lines were allowed the exception rule...you get to the top, you sent. L Day, where are you..I want to know if everyone of his FA's was a clean send, always placing gear, ground up. if so, that'd mean he'd have to go to the top every attempt and rap and pull all gear. is yo-yoing a trad line cool?
A line sent on pre-placed gear (at the top level anyway) has always been an FA. It's usually mentioned in the magazine blurb or guidebook description though that it was done on pre-placed gear. Expect the same for the route Charlie.
Historically someone getting to the top of a route has been given FA then when someone frees it they get the FFA but that doesn't make a lot of sense for small sport crags where it's not really that involved to pull on gear or a rope to get to the top of a 60 foot cliff. Especially with how good cams, nuts, widgets, etc. are these days. I mean, these aren't the Himalayas.
What's up guys? I feel like I'm preaching to the choir on this shit. I know you guys have read climbing magazines before.
Yo Ray jack dynomite! Listen to my beat box! Bew ch ch pff BEW ch ch pfff! Sweet!
"you either have the spirit, or you're a sport climber" great quote from Coyne! sometimes trad climbing is just trying to get your butt out of the Black Canyon and I ain't talking Michelle Obama
Boy, this thread is making me feel better about HCB. Even though I rehearsed it on TR several times at least when I racked up I sent it clean first go
"Be responsible for your actions and sensitive to the concerns of other visitors and land managers. ... Your reward is the opportunity to climb in one of the most beautiful areas in this part of the country." John H. Bronaugh
When you mention "raps in to drill anchors" you are talking about a sport route and not trad no matter what type of protection you use.
So in this case there is no "trad FA". Traditional climbing is all about ground up, not rap down. Those that rap in to do their climbing are only a step above sport rappellers.
