I swear I am not trying to stir up anything, but had a question posed to me last week. Figured I go with community consensus since I had no idea how to answer. Here is the scenario:
Trad climber raps in and drill anchors for a one pitch trad line. He lowers and then topropes the line cleanly. Afterwards, he pulls the rope, and leads it placing gear, but falls at the crux. he is now lower than the crux, so he rests and then resumes climbing cleanly thru the crux, placing the rest of the gear and clipping the chains.
Second scenario: instead of rapping in to drill, he leads up the crack and tops out, falling only once in the ascent. He raps from a tree to put anchors at the proper place, and then his buddy cleanly TR's the new pitch. Either one or both get the FA?
Are trad rules seperate from sport rules? Is there an FA here?
Trad FA's
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anticlmber
- Posts: 3393
- Joined: Wed Jun 18, 2003 12:34 am
Unless of course they want to grade it as 5.n A0. But then someone would do a first free ascent, but people would think it was a first female ascent, and then they'd wonder why it took a woman so long to do such an easy, chossy line, and then they'd be accused of sexism, and then people would write run-on sentences about it on the internet, and then I'd read them and maybe comment too, and all while I should be finishing other work and going to bed.
OK, I'll bite... (maybe that comment will at least get this thread hijacked.)
We're talking FAs here, not Red Points. And we're also talking trad, not sport.
First Climb - FA, no Red Point. But bravo on the effort and thanks for the new line. And all us (well, most of) traddies love a bolted anchor.
Second Climb - FAs, no Red Points. It's trad! Make the moves, place the gear, get to the top and get the FA. The second climber gets listed at the discretion of the first climber (who I am assuming found the line, cleared the trail, cleaned the rock and talked the second climber into coming out for a day of awesome adventure. IMO, the second should be listed, since he went to the top also. (I've even been told that on trad FAs basically everyone at the crag may be included at the discretion of the FA). And again, thanks to the traddie for bolting anchors instead of leaving a couple of slings around a suspect rhodo.
Third Climb - FA, no Red Points, one Pink Point. See all the above. And I really like this climber; 3 new trad routes with bolted anchors!
Now about Sport FAs... I ain't touching that one with a stick!
We're talking FAs here, not Red Points. And we're also talking trad, not sport.
First Climb - FA, no Red Point. But bravo on the effort and thanks for the new line. And all us (well, most of) traddies love a bolted anchor.
Second Climb - FAs, no Red Points. It's trad! Make the moves, place the gear, get to the top and get the FA. The second climber gets listed at the discretion of the first climber (who I am assuming found the line, cleared the trail, cleaned the rock and talked the second climber into coming out for a day of awesome adventure. IMO, the second should be listed, since he went to the top also. (I've even been told that on trad FAs basically everyone at the crag may be included at the discretion of the FA). And again, thanks to the traddie for bolting anchors instead of leaving a couple of slings around a suspect rhodo.
Third Climb - FA, no Red Points, one Pink Point. See all the above. And I really like this climber; 3 new trad routes with bolted anchors!
Now about Sport FAs... I ain't touching that one with a stick!
Pick myself up, stop lookin' back.
Grand Funk Railroad
Grand Funk Railroad
