To bolt or not to bolt: That is the question

[pkananen]

This is the Red. When you go Muir, it's stupid to bring a cam to climb a good sport route that's really just missing a bolt.

[ahab]

This is the Red. When you go Muir, it's stupid to bring a cam to climb a good sport route that's really just missing a bolt.

total number of mixed climbs in the muir: 32 out of 323 = 10%
total number of mixed climbs in all other rrg crags: 51 out of 1596 = 3%

???

bolt the damn route, or leave it clean for those who still have ethics and good style...never mind just bolt it.

the 90% rule seems logical.

[ahab]

adding a bolt doesn't take away anyone's ability to climb it the original way.

i want you to go stand in the corner and think about what you just said.

[TradMike]

I just saw someone die on a 5.10d X and helped out with the recovery. All his gear pulled and he landed on his head.

If it is mostly trad and one bolt would prevent a death then just add one bolt for the blank section. If it protects with gear that won't hold a fall, bolt it. The area, history and first ascent need to be taken into account as well. If sport routes exist all around then bolts will be more accepted. If it is a trad area then one bolt might be tolerated. The New has a lot of trad routes with a bolt or two.

[SCIN]

Pfff...no question. Bolt it.

[Jeff]

I know the line and it looks super sweet. Do whatever needs to be done so that it will get climbed. Personaly, I like mixed lines and am opposed to a bolt placed where gear will work (solid gear, not a sketch wire). I say bolt it but leave it mixed.

[cliftongifford]

maybe bolt it, maybe not... get a consensus from your friends that have seen it and ask them what they think. it's hard to tell whether you should bolt it or not without actually seeing the crack. better yet, take a pic for us to see.

[michaelarmand]

This is the Red. When you go Muir, it's stupid to bring a cam to climb a good sport route that's really just missing a bolt.

total number of mixed climbs in the muir: 32 out of 323 = 10%
total number of mixed climbs in all other rrg crags: 51 out of 1596 = 3%

I would say that at least half of the Muir routes mentioned above are "trad" lines with a bolt or two needed to prevent an R rating. And I'm ok with the others that are really more of sport routes with a cam or two needed (example - the Hideout). If the FA sees a solid crack and doesn't want to put a bolt next to it - I agree.

[camhead]

to the original poster, has the route seen an FA yet? If so, leave it how the FA did it. If not, do whatever you want, and leave your name attached to it.

[Sandman]

DONT BOLT IT!!!!!! be bold.... It is OK to be scared sometimes.... It is OK to have to place some "sketchy" gear.... And if it can go cleanly on gear, do it in GOOD style!!! Also, if you go through all the work to bolt it and "someone" comes along and does it ground up on gear in a good fairly safe style... then that person may be inclined to chop the bolts to make a point... Just saying, It could happen.